Peter C.
Yelp
The Larder
When I was a kid, pop-ups referred to books. Awesome books that would come to life as you flipped through them, somehow defying the laws of physics and making the impossible (3-D from 2-D), possible. Pop-ups are still all the rage, it seems, though today you're more likely to hear about them in reference to theatrical affairs of untested quality but -- more reliably -- extraordinary expense, with a celebrity chef or two usually in tow. See, e.g., the absurd MasterChef dining extravaganza abutting St. Mary's Cathedral in July that came and went with a whimper.
The Larder gives pop-ups a much better name, because it offers what most transient dining experiences these days do not -- good quality food at lower (WHAT?!?) prices, not higher ones. Like a good pop-up, it's managed to defy the laws (of market economics) and make the impossible, possible. The Larder's set up as a 3-month operation adjacent to the mainstay Otto Ristorante. On a recent Friday evening, the restaurant was reasonably busy, but only half full, so service was attentive, but not overbearing. The bread basket ($4) came with a fruity olive oil and three pieces of deliciously warm (steaming, in fact, when you tore them apart) bread that were crusty on the outside, soft on the inside, including olive, mini-baguette, and soy/linseed. For my main, I ordered the confit duck leg with pickled mandarins, celery and parsley ($25). The duck meat was fall-off-the-bone tender and cooked beautifully, a simple preparation. The pickled mandarin slices were a real highlight -- too bad there were only 2 of them on the plate. I also ordered two terrific half sides ($9 total) -- the caramelized carrots with corn and the green salad. The salad, composed of mixed greens, radicchio and a citrus vinaigrette, was perfectly dressed and refreshingly light. The carrots were grilled, a preparation I don't often see, which gave them a lovely smoky flavor, but were served cold. I think I would have preferred this side warm, but the taste was spot on. Overall, food was simple, but well-executed. Not much more you can ask for at these prices.
Accept that the Larder is more rustic and less formal than its upscale, stuffy cousin, and you won't be disappointed. Things are served in metal buckets, egg crate containers, and newspapers. I liked it -- but wouldn't expect Otto to be the same. Get there before it all shuts down September 27th. M-F, 6-10 pm. BYO.