Josie C.
Yelp
Chartres is a lovely and magical small medieval town, that reminded me of the 'quiet little village' that Belle in Disney's 'Beauty and the Beast' described in her song:
'Little town
It's a quiet village
Ev'ry day
Like the one before.....'
La Cathédrale Notre Dame de Chartres stands over the town with its sweeping mismatched Gothic towers; flying buttresses; and carved solemn figures of saints, devils, and angels. It rises like a lovely misty vision of old world romance and sacred devotion to touch the clouds.
People come from all over the world to see this amazing example of original Gothic architecture with some of the most unique stained glass windows in Europe. There is also the world famous labyrinth on the floor of the cathedral as you enter the front entrance and approach the alter! It is a coiling circular path that guides one to the center of the labyrinth. It was meant to be a journey to the spiritual Jerusalem and it was funny since I had just traveled from the uniquely spiritual and beautiful Jerusalem.
The labyrinth has a long history and is a wonderful tool for walking meditations but is only accessible on Fridays. Also, don't miss the ancient crypt underneath the cathedral. There's a serene garden like area by the building near the museum that you can enjoy. Malcolm Miller, a cranky opinionated English scholar has been giving tours there for the past 50 years, like a house elf except in a cathedral.
At first, I was appalled when my friends drove me to Chartres at night, because it looked desolate, industrial, and rural in the outer areas. Then, one of my friends in the car started humming the tune from 'Beauty and the Beast' as we drove into the dark, shuttered, empty and deserted small city center of Chartres. I was secretly shaking my fist at another friend, Cutie Pie, a tre chic hottie, who grew up there and who reassured me that it is 'very very nice' I thought ''Damn you, Cutie Pie for misleading me!!! Damn you!!!'
I hadn't rented a car and I was desperately hoping as I smiled and chatted with my companions, that it wouldn't be a one bus service dull little village. I could tell my Parisian friends were appalled, but only casually mentioned that they could bring me anything I needed from Paris. They didn't know much about Chartres which is a little over an hour train ride from Paris. Whew, it turns out to be so very different than what we all imagined!
Mais non!!! But Chartres is full of shopping, eating, movies, a museum, and everything else. It has old medieval buildings with grey roofs, wooden shutters with flower pots, winding stone streets, and town squares where you can people watch. There are many shops, patisseries, restaurants, chocolatier, and all types of specialty stores lining the cute little streets. I had wi-fi, reliable all day and night trains to and from Paris, tasty coffee, and places where I could relax and eat yummy snacks without getting bored.
Belle:
'Little town
Full of little people
Waking up to say:
(Lady):
Bon jour!
(Man carrying grain sack):
Bon jour!
(Egg man):
Bon jour!
(Washer woman):
Bon jour!
(Baker):
Bon jour!'
Everybody says Bon jour!! all the time in Chartres..very friendly and small village-y. DO NOT piss the towns folks off by omitting this greeting...they might come after you with pitchforks..seriously..
The May air was cool, breezy, and sunny and much cleaner than Paris, Nice, or Marseilles. It was very relaxing and invigorating to walk 30 mins to the city center with my netbook to use McDo's (McDonald's in Frenchspeak) wi-fi and enjoy few of the Frenchi-fied offerings. I never eat in McDonald's here in the US but I was very grateful for the clean and nice sitting area and the free wi-fi.
I would work and then just wander around the twisty and lumpy stone paved streets to take pictures, look into the store windows, and taste chocolates, creme cafe with Chantilly cream, baked goods, crepes.....they are usually much better than here in the States. The croissants were so fluffy, crispy, crunchy, heavenly, and not bready at all! So amazing!!! However, I am not a huge fan of French food so I generally ate out in ethnic restaurants and saved my appetite for my trips to Chinatown in Paris. The Vietnames food there is unparalleled....the pho there was incredibly flavorful, delicate, and satisfying.
Boulangerie Patisserie C. Avert on Avenue Maurice Maunoury has everything - chocolates, sandwiches, baked goods....so delicious. I used to buy baguettes on my walk back to the house to eat with foie gras, ham, fresh churned butter, cheese, and boudin from my favorite charcouterie.
Chartres is a lovely fairy tale French town with a serene world famous Gothic Castle..oops...cathedral with a timeless labyrinth, underground crypt, and beautiful glowing Rose windows for spiritual contemplation and renewal. And sometimes I heard echoes of Belle singing about longing to leave 'the little town' with 'little people'..Bon jour, bon jour..