Brad S.
Yelp
Paleteria La Reyna needs to work on its social media strategy, because their only online presence is a personal Facebook page; according to the site, there's a person name Paleteria La and they really like to post pictures of food. Not that that's atypical behavior for most Facebookers. I did notice something interesting, though: the proprietor lists their hometown as Rio Grande, in the Mexican state of Zacatecas, located in the North Central part of the country. Perhaps this geographical distance from both the Jalisco-style (every other Mexican restaurant seems to have "Jalisco" plastered on the sign) or the Baja- Sonora- Chihuahua- or Coahuila- style that dominates your particular border state explains why Paleteria seems to do things so much more differently than most other Mexican restaurants in town.
The guisados are certainly a draw. Easy to find in Texas and nowhere else, this simple amalgamation of slowly simmered protein and the sauce in which it is cooked turns into a thick and gelatinous gravy spiked with pull-apart tender pieces of meat as the ingredients coalesce. It's a simple concept, not unlike making a chili, and the results are almost foolproof, as you are free to cook it for as long as it takes to come together. The sharp, bright flavors of the pork verde here are familiar and delicious thanks to the tomatillo, cilantro and lime. The pork rojo, however, is something new to me, and while they may disguise it under a simple guisado moniker, if you look back a littler farther, you may find some similarities to Asado de Bodas, a bright red pork stew containing cinnamon, Mexican chocolate, and chiles, and which is unsurprisingly a dish native to Zacatecas.
You might be able to argue that sopes, which originated in sorta-nearby Culiacan, were also something specific to the region that was able to make the trip to Wichita. But I'm not going to make that argument; instead, I'm going to shut up and make them my preferred method of taco delivery, because they offer the best of both hard and soft-shelled worlds: a crispy exterior that's too thick to collapse under the moisture of the guisado and a soft, substantial interior that alludes to their freshly-fried nature. They're a little messy, but don't be afraid to get dirty.
Guisados aside, the barbacoa and al pastor are so good that it makes you wonder why so many other Mexican restaurants struggle with it.
It would be enough to just be an awesome paleteria, which it is - only one of two paleterias in town, and one of only a handful of places that make their own ice cream , though none with the open-mindedness to throw just about anything into either of their frozen creations just for the hell of it. It also is to La Reyna's credit that this little restaurant tucked away a block south of 29th and Arkansas can have their wares stocked throughout the city.
Superlatives aside (because I've simply run out of superlatives to use), Paleteria La Reyna is the best Mexican restaurant in town, without question or qualification. Yes, it's pretty far north, and in a part of town you don't usually visit unless you want to eat Mexican food, and yes, there's a newer sister restaurant on West that offers a more hot dog and hamburger-themed menu (I don't watch local television, but it's telling that the only commercial I could find for La Reyna 1 is in Spanish, and La Reyna 2 in English), but it doesn't matter. Go there now and experience the pleasures of talented Mexican cooking.