Alex M.
Yelp
Overall: A // 5 stars
Palette Tea Garden is my favorite dim sum restaurant of all time to date; it's a establishment I strive to visit every time I visit the Bay Area and at this point I have tried most of the dim sum restaurant. The one in San Mateo specifically has the perfect balance of emphasis on high quality technique mixed with California elevated flavor innovation for a reasonable price and casual and light stress atmosphere inline with traditional morning tea. The play on artistry is that it comes with a palette of five sauces to help elevate your tastes, featuring chili oil, mustard, sweet soy, herb sauce, and a coconut sauce. I cannot recommend this restaurant enough -- this is a must visit for true dim sum enthusiasts and beyond.
Firstly, my favorite dim sum dish is Cheung Fun -- rice crepes / rice noodle rolls, but this dish seems to be a dying breed so I am very thrilled that Palette has an offering that not only continues to highlight the quality of the dish with ultra thin rice crepes, but also elevate it in a new light. My favorite of their renditions is the soft shell crab, which featuring crispy crab and yuzu flavors, that tastes reminiscent of shrimp and the fried dough variants combined. Unfortunately, even this rendition has been removed from the menu and we are left with four slightly more suboptimal choices -- rainbow prawn, which is a good idea if the prawn were not diced; cilantro, which would taste better if they made a cilantro you tiao instead of a spring roll; crispy unagi, which would work much better without frying the eel; and beef, which is a classic, but would taste better with meat slices instead of beef paste.
Next, their bao menu featuring a good variety of different buns from vegetarian to meat to dessert. Their choice to pan fry all of them is smart to add a layer of crispness to contrast the pillowy bun, and particularly the Lava Bao is so addictive with the salted egg lava that just oozes comfortingly out of the bun. The sponge cake was a recent choice I tried, and the sesame is a smart flavor addition to give the sugars a contrast in earthy undertone to build some complexity; the cake was light, fluffy, and delightful -- my only criticism here is that, as the picture on the menu intended, is to not cut the cake because ours couldn't even standup straight!
Onto the dumplings, their soup dumplings are the gold standard for soup dumplings. They are served in individual soups so you don't have to internally stress about whether you can consume your dumpling in peace without the soup leaking out; adding a piece of carrot between the spoon and the dumpling is smart to stop it from sticking, and also adds a delicate sweetness too. These soup dumplings are large, wrapped well, at especially the tip part, and the palette version is just mesmerizing to look at. The filling is tender, there is plenty of soup in each, and I enjoy the different variations that give the chef's skill some additional character, especially the black truffle which is splendid. My other favorites are the XO Scallop Dumplings, where the homemade XO adds a mild umami spiciness with a seafood intensity that helps bring out the dumpling; the Crab Butter Dumplings plays on an Asian favorite of the crab roe to develop that similar seafood intensity on top of a fish dumpling. The classic Ha Gow and Siu Mai are also done well, where there is a good balance of meat and filling, bouncily tender, and with an appropriately thin skin.
In light of innovation, I am also very happy that they did not neglect the classics. The yuba skin roll, phoenix claws, daikon cakes, braised beef tripes are all executed flawlessly; the braised items are so incredibly tender that it almost melts in your mouth; the flavors are addictive to salivate, and the presentation is elevated along the way. In that vein, the desserts are carried over from classic dim sum as well, all well executed and taste as good as others, but without neglecting the aesthetic.
Finally, the carb dishes is inline with the theme of tasty street food with that skillfully utilizes wok hay, while elevating the flavors a bit. The wagyu chow fun has butterly tender beef to the point that I was so enthused to almost order a second bowl! The truffle duck fried rice is also a gem, where the truffle and duck carry a subtle flavor of the wilderness into the comfort of the rice; for this dish, I was also so impressed with their usage of the broccoli stem into making it one of the best parts of the dish, when its diced so finely and adds beautiful color and texture.
Food: +2
Presentation: +1
Price: E
Atmosphere: E
Service: E
Menu: +2
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