John Tomarchio
SerpAPI
Excellence, with disclaimer. Paneantico has five star offerings, to be sure, but getting service requires fortitude. Well worth it, though, because nothing in the neighborhood stands up to the quality and authenticity of its offerings (especially not the two bougie Italian markets down 3rd Ave.).
This little place is four stores packed in one. It's both a bread bakery and a pastry shop, but it is also part salumeria and part tavola calda (cold deli and hot take-out)
First and foremost is Paneantico's brick-oven bread, which I daresay is not easily rivaled even in Italy itself. The Old World authenticity of taste and texture is truly excellent, and the stuff freezes and reheats beautifully, so stock up. They also make a great variety of delicious sandwiches with it on site, sandwiches so generously stuffed with high quality stuff that one can stuff 2 people on 1 sandwich, or even 4 ladies on a diet. Some of their Italian biscotti boast the same singular excellence, in particular their traditional quaresimali (almond biscotti), well worth the high price because of the almond flour used to make them. Their sesame seed biscotti are a personal favorite and staple. Their pizza and foccaccie are consistently delicious. In general, when it comes to the bread bakery, trust your eyes.
Their cakes and pastries don't win my eye, with some notable exceptions: They make an AWESOME Tres Leches cake (yes, even though it isn't Italian), which you generally have to order in advance--a real crowd-pleaser well worth the trouble and price for special occasions. Also special, I've recently learned, are their seasonal St. Joseph's pastries, in particular their ricotta ones. I've been tempted by the sight of their big tiramisu cake slices, but I haven't chanced one yet. When their sfogliatelle are fresh, they too are great. Except, they're willing to sell you stale ones, and the disappiontment is so great when they're not, I've actually thrown some away. Fresh from the kitchen, they're outstanding, and even rival Bensonhurst's best (you know who I mean).
The deli counter offers excellent cold offerings. The olives are highest quality not easily found. The gigantic Sicilian riceballs heat up delicious. The eggplant caponata is reliably tasty, as is the fava and chick pea salads--rustic done right. The fresh mozzarella is likewise reliable, and reliably delicious in Paneantico's sundry sandwiches. The traditional fish salad rivals Mom's well enough that this year we bought it from Paneantico instead of making it ourselves for Christmas Eve. I can't tell you what kind of compliment that is from Mom.
The hot offerings have never disappointed. They change day to day. Looks to me like the chef makes the best of the day's best at the market, and it tastes like it. I've had delicious baked clams, cornish game hen stuffed with rice, lamb roasted with potatoes, pork roast, eggplant, and whatnot. It ain't cheap, but I've never regretted paying what I did for it. If you know what you're getting, you know why you're paying for it.
One disclaimer: getting service is challenging. Space is tight and there's only one long counter and line for all offerings. The deli guys are busy with both in-house and take-out orders, so that getting their attention is not easy. If you manage to get your order across to them through the bustle and the plastic covid barrier, it gets passed along to the bakery girls, who ring it up along with whatever you may order from their end. Sometimes they route all orders through the girls, but it's not clear that helps. Either way, you wait the line--no jumping over the guy in front of you with his multitudinous order (that would be me). Mistakes are easy to make, so gird your loins and make sure you get what you ask for. I promise you it will all be well worth it when you get home.
