Michael U.
Yelp
Items Selected:
Bacalao Empanada
Parque de Elote
Panque Plotono
Pastel de Zanaharia
Cubilete de Queso
Beso
Dona de Azucar
Chocolate Walnut Cookie
Sprinkle Cookie
Concha Sandwich
Chocolate Egg
Opened in 1942 when Chef Jaime Bassegoda escaped to Mexico from the Spanish Civil War, Pasteleria Suiza is still doing business in the same space that originally housed it, the Swiss naming reportedly taken because of its owner's fascination with the nation's technique and focus on craftsmanship.
Seated at central to Condesa, the sizable Park España stretching out across the street, it was after a long day of eating and seeing the sights of historic Mexico City that the large building sporting red and white crosses played host for breakfast, an 8:15am arrival finding shelves just being stocked by two bakers while an elderly man and younger woman tidied up the Chocolates and items on the counter.
Now under new ownership from its original iteration, but still featuring fine European Pastries alongside traditional favorites from Mexico, it was after some deliberation and wandering around the tightly packed shop that selections were slowly made from various racks, the full-sized Cakes and a variety of Chocolates all enticing and well priced, though only a cute Easter Chick atop a gold box was purchased, the two Eggs inside featuring Dark Chocolate with a good break and bitter notes that were hollowed out to contain a few small Candy pellets.
Again surprised by the affordability of baked goods in Mexico City, the ten Pastries and aforementioned Chocolate ringing in at just 242 pesos, it was to the park that goods were taken along with several napkins and plastic utensils for indulgence, the warm Bacalao Empanada featuring reduced Codfish Stew that unfortunately tasted little like Fish and more like the spice mixture plus Potatoes and Peas, the 'Parque de Elote' another savory choice that tasted a lot like Creamed Corn baked soft and fluffy without a bit of Sugar added to the mix.
Happy to see a Beso with Jam as opposed to the buttery Frosting which ruined one at Ideal, that Crisco-slick white paste unfortunately found at the center of an inedible Concha Sandwich instead, another odd bite was found within Powder Sugar dusted "Panque Plotono," expectations of a Cream Pie shattered by a Crust actually contained Banana Bread - not especially a bad thing, but perhaps unnecessary as neither layer was necessary or complimentary to the other.
Finding Suiza's modestly spiced Carrot Cake underwhelming after the outright deliciousness of that at Bo Patisseria and therefore discarding most of it, far more intrigue roused by a 'Cubilete' de Queso that is essentially a molded Quick Bread sold at various shops with a significant degree of variability from place to place, the version offered by Pasteleria Suiza is more Cake-like than those found at Da Silva or Eno with a flavor not so different from traditional Cheese Flan, but in this case punctuated by small Blueberries that had mostly fallen to the base.
Finding Mexican Cookies predictably dry, though both the Shortbread beneath Sprinkles and Walnut Studded Cocoa were well flavored, those looking for Suiza's best are encouraged to arrive early as the selection of Donuts goes quickly, a businesswoman that morning nearly clearing the shelf of what would turn out to be much like a Beignet, the still-warm pocket rolled in granulated Sugar stuffed at its core with sweet eggy Custard.
