Mexican Restaurant Pedro’s Cocina in Los Gatos Reopens With a Mexico City Vibe | Eater SF
"A long-standing Mexican restaurant that opened in 1972 under owner Peter Ramirez and was purchased by the Kapoor family (now of Saison Hospitality) in 1990, the Los Gatos location reopened on Wednesday, November 20 under chef Julio Aguilera (previously of Saison and now-shuttered Copas) after closing in February for a redesign and menu refresh. Aguilera describes the menu as “what Mexican American restaurants have been doing for the last 40-plus years, mashed with what chefs have been doing in Mexico City, Puebla, and Tulum more recently.” He refers to the style as cocina de autor (author’s cooking), or “taking the Mexican pantry and being creative and personal with it.” While some beloved classics remain — notably the carne asada nachos with guacamole and cheese and the sweet corn tamales with roasted poblano and green tomatillo — Aguilera says the direction is “Having fun with interpretations of traditional dishes.” Examples of that approach include the pescado del dia: black cod with avocado puree and broccolini marinated in ancho chile marinade; a “Caesar” salad made of zucchini and green papaya sprinkled with cotija and dressed in Thai basil Caesar dressing; and a pulpo of Spanish grilled octopus accompanied by fruity mole, red onion, radicchio, raisins, and pineapple. The nixtamalized masa for the tortillas is sourced from Bolita Masa, a small operation by Oakland chef Emanuel Galvan, who “has dedicated the past few years to researching and implementing the intricacies of fresh masa.” Aguilera cites local inspirations such as the two-Michelin-star Californios and neighborhood spots like Tacos Mi Reynita and La Vaca Birria, and notes that “They’re doing things how they’re supposed to be done.” A full redesign by LA-based John Sofio of Built Inc — the firm behind Poppy, the Peppermint Club, and Delilah — aims to pair a coastal, breezy vibe with Mexico City’s culinary gravitas; as Sofio puts it, “Mexico City is a prime global culinary destination... Los Gatos is an upscale tight-knit community.” The interior emphasizes indoor plants, intricate perforated lighting, wood paneling, textured banquet seating and clay floor tiles to create warm, sophisticated rooms and vignettes around the bar and lounge — some named after prominent, long-serving team members — intended as “villages around the town center” that transport diners “to walk through the Mexican coastline into Mexico City.” Beverage director Leo Gonzales weaves Mexican ingredients into cocktails like the aguacate margarita (fresh avocado, cilantro and lime), described as a non-trend savory and spicy concoction, and the coctel de temporada (aka Señor Parrot), a seasonal rum, mango, condensed milk and mamey drink served in a whimsical parrot cup. Aguilera hopes to honor the restaurant’s long-standing role in the community while offering something new: “You have mom and dad becoming grandpas and grandmas, you have the kids becoming parents, which is nice about being in the middle of a small town,” he says. “People had their birthdays here, and wedding anniversaries. They will come into the reimagined space and gain a new understanding of it.”" - Flora Tsapovsky