Crystal I.
Google
Piccalilli sits quietly within a narrow lane in city centre, its interior defined by exposed brick, timber beams and a softened industrial aesthetic. Dried flowers and greenery add warmth, while low evening lighting gives the space a calm, understated feel. It is a room designed for slow, relaxed dining rather than drama.
That restraint carries through to the food. The menu is built around seasonal, local produce, drawing on British cooking with subtle European influences. Dishes are served as small plates, moving from snacks to vegetables, meat and fish, encouraging sharing and a measured progression through the meal. At its best, the cooking is thoughtful and controlled.
Devilled eggs, paprika mayonnaise & anchovies
A familiar idea, executed with clarity. Smoky paprika and anchovies bring savoury depth, while the yolk remains smooth and rich. Simple, direct and effective.
Treacle baked ham & Piccalilli
The ham is lean, with a mild meat flavour that is quickly overtaken by salt. Although the piccalilli has a well judged sweet and sour balance, it too leans salty, and together the seasoning becomes heavy. Diced carrot and cauliflower add crunch, but their firmness contrasts awkwardly with the softness of the room temperature ham, leaving the dish feeling disjointed.
Roast wild mushrooms, Jerusalem artichokes, coddled egg & tarragon
Mushroom flavour is subtle, with the focus placed on a smooth mushroom emulsion that sits between gel and cream. The mushrooms themselves are lightly caramelised and soft, adding warmth. Jerusalem artichoke brings crisp sweetness, though the similar softness of the emulsion and egg yolk makes the finish slightly repetitive. Clean and restrained overall.
Ratte potatoes, shallots, buttermilk, dill & mustard seeds
One of the strongest plates of the evening. Lightly crisp outside, soft and silky within. Mustard seeds add earthy bite, dill brings freshness, and gentle buttermilk acidity keeps everything balanced and lively.
Scallops, parsley velouté & fried soda bread
Lightly seared, tender and juicy, with clear natural sweetness. The accompaniments are kept in check, allowing the scallops to remain the focus. Calm and precise.
House soda bread, salted Jersey butter
Dense but moist, with a pronounced alkaline note. The Jersey butter, served at room temperature, is soft and rich, pairing naturally with the bread’s weight.
Halibut, Cornish potatoes, samphire & hollandaise
The halibut is slightly overcooked, resulting in a drier texture and muted flavour. Seasoning is assertive, masking the fish’s natural sweetness. Crisp skin adds contrast, but the dish struggles to find balance.
Roast venison, beetroot, pickled blackberries & juniper
The venison is firm but not tough, with a concentrated flavour and a light metallic note typical of game. A deep red wine sauce grounds the dish, while pickled blackberries add brightness. The beetroot, roasted until sweet and caramelised, is particularly strong and occasionally close to dominating. Slightly past ideal doneness, but still a solid plate.
Overall, Piccalilli shows a clear respect for ingredients and restraint. Its vegetable dishes are the most assured, while heavier seasoning occasionally disrupts balance.