Michael U.
Yelp
Known for lengthy lines and its eponymous family, Pizzeria Da Oliva Concettina ai Tre Santi is the star of chaotic Sanità, and although Pizzas honed across generations for nearly 70 years are inspired and enjoyable a combination of service gaffs viewed within Naples otherwise outstanding Pizza culture made for a somewhat lackluster experience.
Situated at the ancient city's chaotic core, and currently directed by Pizzaiolo Ciro Oliva, it was just prior to 19h00 that two guests found Concettina ai Tre Santi nearly empty, a surprising situation leading to immediate seating adjacent a family of three including a particularly unruly child.
Greeted pleasantly, but then ignored by staff who appeared to be engaged in a service meeting-turned-argument, it was after lengthy perusal of English-friendly menus that decisions were made, the arrival of Pizza Margherita less than 90-seconds later a surprise, particularly as it belonged to the other table.
Having requested two Fritti plus a pair of Pizzas and Water, it was as staff continued to shout that Ciro could be watched at work, the fourth generation Baker diligently stretching Dough over a wood paddle while another Chef manned the fryer.
Receiving "Big Montanara" first, no Water or Genovese Omelette to be found, the quality of Antonio Oliva's Dough becomes apparent immediately, the disc's placement atop meaty Ragu, Basil and Cheese encouraging scarpetta until every last bite is gone.
Well known for arduous Ingredient sourcing, the fact that most of Concettina ai Tre Santi's Pizzas sell for just €8 surprising considering this fact, it was still without Water on the table that two Pizzas arrived simultaneously, one with a Salami-stuffed cornicione benefiting the San Gennaro Foundation with proceeds and diners through vibrant Tomatoes, Smoked Provola and Tarallo Crumbs.
Guiding Concettina ai Tre Santi into the future with Pizza "a canotto," but remaining rooted in history through classics handed down from Ciro's great-grandmother, it was finally after 75% of the Pizza was gone that a bottle of Acqua Panna arrived, a situation never really explained but stricken from the bill after the 3-in-1 Concettina highlighted by a folded pocket of crisp Pork was finished.