Clint Bridges
Google
Port O’ Call, Hamilton, Bermuda – A Fine Dining Gem with a Few Caveats
Port O’ Call, nestled on Front Street in the heart of Hamilton, Bermuda, is a sophisticated dining destination that lives up to its reputation as one of the island’s premier restaurants. My recent visit left me impressed with its vibrant atmosphere, fresh seafood, and attentive service, though a few aspects kept it from being flawless.
The ambiance strikes a perfect balance between upscale and approachable. The cedar-paneled dining room, accented with brass fittings, feels like stepping into a luxurious steamship, while the al fresco harbor-view terrace offers a lively backdrop of Front Street’s bustle. The restaurant buzzes with a mix of well-dressed locals—think Bermuda’s business elite sealing deals over lunch—and visitors seeking a refined meal. The bar area, where happy hour draws a lively crowd, is a great spot to start with a cocktail from their extensive, Wine Spectator award-winning list, featuring over 40 wines by the glass.
The menu shines with its focus on fresh, local ingredients, particularly seafood. I opted for the daily special, a grilled Bermuda wahoo, which was perfectly cooked and paired with a chorizo white bean ragout that added a delightful smoky depth. The tuna tartare appetizer, served with mango and avocado, was a fresh and flavorful start, though the portion was smaller than expected for the price. My dining companion raved about the 24-hour braised beef short ribs, describing them as tender and packed with flavor, though one review I read later noted they can occasionally be bland. For dessert, the cheesecake was a standout—light, fluffy, and a perfect end to the meal, living up to its island-wide acclaim.
Service was a highlight. The staff was warm, knowledgeable, and attentive without being overbearing, making us feel welcomed despite being first-time visitors. However, some online reviews mention inconsistent service, with occasional delays between courses, though I didn’t experience this.
My main critique is the value. While the food quality is undeniable, portions can feel modest for the high prices, and the bill adds up quickly, especially with drinks. One Tripadvisor reviewer noted that the cost was double the average for Bermuda dining, which aligns with my experience. Additionally, the restaurant can get noisy, particularly on busy evenings, so it’s not ideal for those seeking an intimate setting.
Verdict: Port O’ Call delivers a memorable fine dining experience with exceptional seafood, a chic atmosphere, and top-notch service. It’s perfect for a special occasion or impressing a client, but budget-conscious diners might hesitate at the price-to-portion ratio. I’d return for the wahoo and cheesecake alone, ideally during a quieter lunch service to savor the harbor view. 4.5/5 stars.
Reservations recommended; smart casual dress code. Located at 87N Front St, Hamilton.
