The Poseidonion Grand Hotel, Spetses
"Why book?
For its atmosphere of being at the beating heart of Spetses. To sit on the Poseidon terrace overlooking the sea is to feel like you’re watching the whole irrepressible island coming and going: the buzz is fabulous.
Set the scene
Taking a speedy water taxi across the water from Porto Heli—a resort town in the Argolic Gulf—to Spetses, the first thing you notice is the Poseidonion jutting like a vast and immaculately frosted cake above the shore. All eyes are perpetually drawn to the hotel, especially during annual events like the famous Regatta. The island is completely obsessed with boats. Spetses played a seismic role in overcoming nearly 400 years of Ottoman rule with its ships built here—and a naval battle - during the Revolution of 1821. At the regatta in June, boats of all kinds (smart, humble, fast, pretty, cheeky, fabulously tall and elegant) race in the bay before the hotel, as though showing off TO it. Boat crews are everywhere then, waving bottles of champagne, legs burned the color of sherry. The walls of the hotel reception are lined year-round with awards going back decades. Best Classic Boat (Glaramara 1947). Best Traditional Boat (Viking 1956). And through the massive doors—perpetually open—is a thick sea breeze. It’s a bit like being ON the prow of a boat, that sensation of history and water, bright light and salted air is completely irresistible.
The backstory
When it opened in 1914, The Poseidonion was the first hotel in the Balkans with hot water. That it was built at all was miraculous given its size. There was no formal harbor on Spetses then, and the hotel was constructed with steel from Germany, wood from Romania and limestone from Bulgaria: only the best would do, whatever the cost. Then it was seen as almost impossibly cosmopolitan. ‘Something of the upper-upper’ said an islander. ‘In its glamour, untouchable’. Years of decay followed, and there are stories of bathrooms collapsing down three floors into the lobby. In his 1966 novel The Magus (set on Spetses) John Fowles is most cutting about the hotel, describing it as an ‘eyesore’ about as incongruous in its island setting as ‘a hansom cab in a Doric temple’. So wrong! But now fully restored and extended by its owner Emmanuel Vordonis, the hotel is once again immensely glamorous and international. It has the feel of a very wealthy and adored Edwardian maiden Aunt, taking a detour from the usual Cote D’Azur to enjoy instead the delights of a Greek island.
The rooms
Choose from sea views, garden views, pool suites, royal suites, tower rooms… all in a classic, pale palette that quite literally reflects the ever-present island light to such an extent you have the suspicion now and again, standing in a bathroom or walking along a corridor, that you’re somehow floating. In this part of the Argolic Gulf light drifts within the hour from a soft pink to majestic gold, with stunning intensity. Edwardian marble floors in contrasting shades of freckled amber and the pale grey of sea-mist shimmer through all through the lobby and entrance rooms, cooling, soothing. The 75 year-old Vordonis is a bit of an Homeric host. If he’s around, do stop to talk to him. He can tell stories like ballads (many of them boat related) and has a new dream of raising a 100 foot schooner long-sunk off the coast of Crete. His parting salute is particularly cheering: ‘We are good people! We are good creatures!’
Food and drink
Excellent for seafood (no surprise.) Having dinner on the outside terrace here - while the hotel cat Lucia winds through the iron balustrades shaped into what looks like zuchini flowers - you really feel the electricity, communal warmth and humour of this very special island. At breakfast a vast honeycomb is wheeled out like a golden fleece, and smart waiters hurry short coffees to tables toppling with newspapers from all over the world.
The neighborhood/area
Spetses is the perfect Greek island. Best travelled on an electric bike—the scent is of wild herbs and flowers. Deserted beaches of rock and pine, many happy cafes and tavernas, endlessly interesting scenes, the cicadas in the oleander especially noisy when a breeze gets up (often on Spetses) and then the whole place seems to vibrate with rapture or anticipation. A walk in the streets around the hotel will take you past a little cinema most likely showing a new animation about the mythical Icarus whose spirit rises from the sea at night to play with the stars. And past a statue of Laskarina Boubouli—known as Bouboulina—Naval commander, revered and ferocious heroine of the Greek Revolution. She once most authoritatively parlayed with a Dutch consol whilst her hair and dress were matted with battle-field dirt. ‘My god, is this what Europeans look like?’ he tutted, and she just laughed in his face. These days, children hang affectionately from her statue out front of the hotel. It’s a jolly island, and the Poseidonian benignly oversees it all. Prize days, book sales, weddings, live music. Luxurious, egalitarian, fun. Happy 100!
The spa
Given Spetses was named Island of Perfumes by the Venetians, it’s fitting that at the hotel’s Idolo Spa much of the facial and body massages make liberal use of orange blossom and orange water, lavender and lemon oils, and olive oil and seeds. There is a comprehensive list of treatments, but seek out the eye massage.
Eco effort
Much of the food and all the herbs served at the restaurant is grown on the hotel’s own organic farm BOSTANI using devotedly traditional farming techniques. You can also arrange for cooking lessons or a meal here - the farm’s not far from the hotel, a little inland, with views towards the valleys and mountains of the mainland Peloponnese.
Accessibility
Several of the rooms on the ground floor of the newer wing of the hotel have wheelchair access. There are very few cars permitted on Spetses. Just electric bikes, scooters, and horse and carts trotting along the esplanade, while people go for an evening promenade. Spetses town is a fairly wheelchair friendly sort of place.
Anything left to mention?
Coffee at Mosquito cafe on the sea front is a must, as is the black bream carpaccio at TARSANAS restaurant in the old port. Spetses Cruising, and Blue Vibes Charters will take you around the islands and Ermionida coastline for a day, to obscure chapels, tavernas and sands—it’s really worth the expense." - Antonia Quirke