Ereich Empey
Google
In short -- beyond excellent. The restaurant really deserves more recognition for the quality of the food and the wine pairings and is easily on par with other restaurants that have higher recognition by the Michelin guide.
The sustainable, local focused vision of gastronomy is rendered complete with the fantastic marriage of beverages. At the core, the restaurant embodies and exemplifies the ethos of French gastronomy. The mentality of the restaurant is to provide you a gourmet experience, unprejudiced by preconceptions--each beverage pairing is provided after finishing the dish, and the dishes are not written in advance for you to see what is on the menu.
Each course was in a wonderful equilibrium, showcasing a harmony of the various combinations, with some courses being incredibly memorable (the smoked eel amuse bouche, the pike quenelle, the pumpkin dessert). Other dishes were showed a mix of restraint and complexity in the combination of flavors (kohlrabi and venison), while some were just bursts of pure flavor (arctic char and salsify). The beverage pairings, all worked in harmony to either supplement, contrast or complete the dish, and really, the restaurant is best experienced probably with both the beverage pairing. There is a delightful creativity in all the dishes and pairings.
Service is well done--not intrusive, and seamless. The experience watching the staff both prepare and serve is fascinating, and their performance is professional and like a well maintained machine. The interior atmosphere, the blue and wood tones, is a little standard currently for many restaurants, so it lacks a little character, but it works well to bring attention to the service and the table--the stoneware was a highlight.
I look forward to gladly visiting the restaurant again, especially in another season to experience differently the terroir of the region.