Bill S.
Yelp
The Mrs. and I had lunch at Primitivo yesterday during our Valle de Guadalupe wine country adventure.
I'm thankful our driver, Miguel, knew where Primitivo was located. Getting there is an adventure. You get off the main highway, turn down a dirt road, past a house that has a bunch of junk in the yard, until you see the rust colored sign for Primitivo.
I didn't do a lot of research on Primitivo. I knew that it had made it onto the Michelin guide under "recommended".
Once we arrived at Primitivo we walked down a short dirt path towards a small opening in a giant oak tree that was draping the ground. The hostess magically appeared from within to greet us. As she walked us to our table, she let us know that the oak tree was over 300 years old. Folks, the oak tree IS the dining room.
We were seated at a rustic table facing the kitchen. Yes, it is outdoors as well and to call it anything less than a kitchen would be a disservice to those who work in that space. Before us sat a wall of firewood. White oak to be exact. Beyond that wall were talented chefs creating culinary masterpieces born of fire. A grill that was designed by head chef Carolina Jiménez is the centerpiece of this outdoor art exhibition.
The concept of Primitivo is...primitive. Cooking over an open flame, using locally sourced ingredients, and utilizing every part of the animal.
The food is served courses. Three or four courses depending on your preference and appetite. The courses are designed for two people to share and range from 1600 to 2100 Pesos(Approximately $80 to $105) depending on your selection of protein. Your choices are Fishing, Octopus, or Beef. We chose the three course beef menu. There is a four course version available.FYI, the menu online doesn't necessarily reflect the protein available that day.
The menu for yesterday, October 19, 2024 was:
Potato chips with rosemary and garlic, golden tripe.
Roasted sweetbread tacos.
Roasted short rib and glazed carrots with New York crackling.
The potato chips with rosemary and garlic, golden tripe were served in a cast iron skillet. The potatoes were slightly fried and the garlic melted at the touch of my fork. The tripe was fried perfectly. Tiny crisp nuggets of perfection that when eaten with the potatoes and garlic made for an incredible dish.
The roasted sweetbread tacos were wonderful. Served with handmade blue corn tortillas and a spicy brown sauce. The sweetbreads were perfectly seasoned and unless you were told what you were eating you'd think you were eating carnitas.
The short rib was smoked over an open flame for 20 hours. It was crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It was served with a grilled homemade focaccia and glazed carrots with New York crackling. I'm not a fan of carrots but I could become one if they were cooked like Primitivo's.
Primitivo offers oysters as an appetizer. Desserts are also offered along with an extensive selection of drinks and wine. I ordered the Manhattan which was really good and the Mrs. had the mint julep which was really good as well.
If you're going to dine at Primitivo, be patient and allow yourself some time. We were in a bit of a time crunch just because we were only in Ensenada for a few hours. We arrived via cruise ship. Primitivo and the Valle de Guadalupe is only 30 minutes from downtown Ensenada. The only downside is Primitivo doesn't open until 1 so plan accordingly if you have time constraints.
The staff were very friendly and welcoming and the service was excellent.