Katya L.
Yelp
Unfortunately, lunch at Racines was one of my more disappointing meals during an April trip to Paris. The Paris By Mouth blog aptly sums up that Sardinian chef Simone Tondo is "running on autopilot" and it shows (and the review was from early 2020!).
The menu doesn't appear to have been updated since 2019. Tondo is still in the kitchen, but I have to wonder if he doesn't get bored cooking the same small menu daily? In a city obsessed with freshness, I'm shocked that a lauded bistro opts to follow an aged menu rather than be directed by the bounty of the markets. While some dishes seemed to be stable classics, others were phoned in.
The vitello tonnato is still delicious, the meat fork-tender and well-complemented by the salty, rich sauce. However, the pasta was on the undercooked side of al dente, sprinkled with hair-thin wisps of beef cheek that seemed miserly in their dearth and leant no flavor or texture to the dish. The strongest flavor in the pasta was from the capers, which had already made an appearance in the vitello tonnato. While this could be a case of 'ordering the wrong dish' there's no margin for error on such a tightly curated menu. I live for pasta and I couldn't be bothered to finish the dish.
The service was great (particularly for central Paris) warm and friendly. The space is very cozy, in a beautiful historic passage, and the tiny restaurant was full when I visited. Reservations are recommended, although not strictly necessary. Perhaps if you go in without any expectations whatsoever, you would have a better experience. I was left feeling let down. I hope that, as the world opens up post-pandemic, Tondo finds a breath of fresh air in inspiration once again.