Eric V.
Yelp
Within the ample courtyard and low roofed strip of Rowland Plaza is a bustling Korean BBQ spot. For many of my fellow Americans, K-BBQ has taken the place of the steakhouse. But if you find yourself near Rowland Plaza and would like a break from bulgogi, samgyeopsal, and nakji-bokkeum, check out what's next door at Red Chili Hunan.
This Hunan spot has all the quirks you'd expect from a regional Chinese dive. The signage out front features a fuzzy plump cartoon rabbit. Maneki neko cats abound, as does the color red (the color representing prosperity to the Chinese). An employee sits in the dining room, removing the stems from a box of chilis. On one of the bathroom walls, there hangs a still life of a French treatise on mechanics (lol). On the wall perpendicular to that hangs a silhouetted portrait of a Nubian queen (lulz).
I had the wok fried tripe with chilies. Where Sichuan cuisine goes by the credo "ma-la," meaning numbing spicy; neighboring Hunan operates under "gan-la," dry spicy. The heaping bowl arrives and once I'd finished it, it occurred to me that I had no memory of a more intense eating experience than that bowl of cow stomach and chilies.
The tripe in question is the book-leaf tripe, the omasum, the cow's third stomach. You've seen it in a bowl of pho. And according to clovegarden.com, "it contains a unique double texture of both thick and thin." When in pho, book tripe can be extra chewy, but in this case it was as tender as the feeling of Christmas before you got old and jaded.
Along with the tripe there are some bits of al dente celery and an army of chilies. As there are different divisions in an army, so there are divisions in chilies. In the dish are fresnos and jalapenos. Together they add freshness, while individually the fresnos provide the sweetness with beta-carotenes and the jalapenos the grassiness of chlorophyll. There are dried chilies providing the toasted leathery nuttiness. And there are pickled yellow chilies. They are salt pickled, not vinegar pickled. The sourness comes from the funkiness of lacto-fermentation. Those are the qualities that make them different. What they all share is scorching heat. And there are a few Sichuan peppercorns added in for the occasional jolt of electricity.
Remember that lady I told you about? The one pulling the stems off the chilies at one of the tables? She's about seventy years old and is glancing over at me and giggling as I'm tearing up and asking for more ice water.