MichelinStarsChallenge R
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Aside, and after, from trying all the Michelin Stars in Paris and 3 Stars in France (follow me for all the reviews and updates), I have other mini challenges. One of them was this year was to try all the new 2 Stars in France. This was my first new 2023 2 Stars I tried. The rest will be published soon.
“Heureux qui comme Ulysse” - Happy he who like Ulysses has returned successful from his travels.
So what’s extraordinary here? A guy from the North of France, happy to have returned. But with a bags full of tricks.
The context: the chef had a successful career in France outside his native region, he’s just back.
The whole experience transpires the regressive happiness of being home. From the start with a “tarte aux maroilles” (aka as very smelly French cheese) to the dessert trolley packed with childhood memories. It’s deliciously regressive, completely assuming the full flavor, tastefulness (“gourmand “) and I love it.
The demonstration of love doesn’t stop there. He will explain you why, better, he will take you on a tour and show you. You’ll go through the land, the sea and the air, with vegetables from his own garden, scallops and Paloma. Again, the take is to show the flavors. So he’s not shy in being tasteful. He’s proud of it. For example he’s proud of his local beer, and the seafood of the region.
But there’s a last twist that, I guess, makes the difference. There’s a third layer in the middle. The guy is good. Meaning, he’s a pro, and like Ulysses he’s been around. So while the message is “I’m so happy to be back, because I love this wonderful region that has so much”, the vocabulary used is a two stars level. It’s perfectly executed, It’s refine, it’s complexe. Each plate have not only something to tell, but a lot, and they do it well.
The crowd was family oriented (I was there on a weekend…), with older couples celebrating anniversaries. The mood is quite serene because you have the view on the park.
The service is at the image of the region. Very nice and sympathetic.
The chef is a guy from the north of France.
An already solid two stars. A great addition, with his very assuming take on his love for his native region.