The Best Seafood Experience in Oaxaca Is Ay Caray Restaurant | Eater
"A 20-year-old beachfront marisquería run by chef Sandra Cardenas, centered around a traditional domed clay oven (horno de barro) that preserves a pre-Hispanic technique for cooking seafood. The oven’s mesquite smoke and slow, careful roasting yield fresher, juicier textures that define the menu: the showstopping piña rellena — a halved pineapple stuffed with octopus, shrimp, fish, and pineapple chunks topped with manchego — comes slightly charred and blistered from the heat; an exclusive pez loro (parrotfish) is rubbed in a spicy adobo of charred red chiles (including chile de árbol and guajillo) with mayonnaise, garlic, onions, orange juice, and white wine, then roasted whole for pull-apart flesh served with warm tortillas; and local Pinto spiny lobsters, caught daily by free divers, are split, adobo-rubbed, and seared in the oven, often eaten as lobster tacos with black-bean paste perfumed with epazote and smoky salsas. The kitchen also offers a seafood mole amarillo flavored with hoja santa, cloves, and chilhuacle amarillo, and borrows regional preparations (like a baked mashed potato side from Juchitán) to complement the rich, smoky seafood offerings. The overall experience is barefoot-in-the-sand casual — plastic chairs, front-row views of bay activity, and drinks arriving alongside platters of the day’s catch." - Bill Esparza