Michael U.
Yelp
Considered the casual cousin of Helena Rizzo's Mani, Manioca occupies the back of a bookstore inside Iguatemi Shopping with some of the Chef's classic plates plus Salads, Sandwiches and Desserts executed by a team led by Bianca Monteiro.
Popular since 2015, and recently eliminating a "no reservations" policy that had done little to diminish interest in a place often featuring long lines, it was only after asking an attendant in the multi-tiered mall that the Restaurant was discovered behind Livraria Cultura, its interior bright and spacious with plenty of organic flourishes.
Open for Lunch and Dinner daily, a Sunday arrival at 12h00 soon finding every seat filled by a variety of ages, guests not fluent in Portuguese will be happy to know translated menus are offered though servers remain stiff, a situation no different from Rizzo's Michelin starred space but more out of place in such casual environs.
A Bib Gourmand recipient in its own right, though prices aren't much different from Mani when compared dish for dish, it was opting to dine in three courses that a R$20 Couvert was accepted, the same Tapioca Chips previously experienced here just as good but with only two Cheeses as accoutrements.
Deciding to order only classics in this setting, the dishes that established Rizzo's name faithfully reproduced inside a sizable kitchen, course one featured a 63 Egg amidst foam made from Olive Oil and Hearts of Palm, another bit of modernist cooking arriving subsequently as "Noodles" of Vegetables topped with Parmesan Sauce and Herbs.
Passing over Burgers and grilled Meats in favor of Dessert, "The Egg" presumably created via ISI canister and only interesting for crunchy bits of Coconut hidden beneath a sea of Foam, it was finally "The Secret of the Cake" which warranted applause, layers of Sponge and Brigadeiro Frosting alternating with beautiful textures and richness finding its foil in lightly sweetened Ice Cream.
