Ed U.
Yelp
Just a month before our trip to Bilbao, I made a reservation for Jamie W. and myself at this tony Michelin-starred restaurant after seeing three separate videos from travel bloggers raving about its purported can't-miss epicurean artistry. In fact, I exchanged cordial emails with one of the hostesses and made a point of requesting the Barra seating at the chef's counter. Once we got there, we had an evening that lasted three and a half hours as we went through fourteen meticulously prepared courses for 110€ each. By the end, I have to admit we were marginally disappointed with the experience. Surprised? Yeah, me too, and it wasn't for a lack of effort by the staff who followed very specific steps that were mapped out on a whiteboard to get the dishes to look exactly the same for each diner. Meantime, we ordered cocktails after a long day of walking around the city.
Jamie went old school and ordered a straight-up 5.50€ Gin & Tonic, while I indulged a bit with a smooth 7€ Negroni which added vermouth and Campari to the mix (photo: http://bit.ly/2lWxF1T). Two unnamed amuse bouches came in quick succession. The first was a trio of asparagus tortellini in a light soup festooned with squash blossoms (photo: http://bit.ly/2h9Bsn9), and the other was a dollop of tomato-infused crema with a scoop of roe on top and a couple of crisps as wings (photo: http://bit.ly/2Adr19N). Both seemed incidental to the meal and were quickly devoured. The official dinner began with a Gillardeau Oyster in Gin with a Citric Touch, which definitely had a strong kick of booze (photo: http://bit.ly/2zm7pAX). A pair of plump Mussels came next accompanied by Lemongrass, Coconut Soup, and Hot Tomato (photo: http://bit.ly/2AqAxY8). That was quite delicious with an unexpected Thai-style flavor.
Also good though a tad generic was the Weakfish which came served with an "Arbequina" Olive Emulsion though it was hardly present on the plate (photo: http://bit.ly/2j57y7V). Rather odd was the clump of Black Cheese with Mushroom and Crunchy Chicken (photo: http://bit.ly/2AoGxAD). The chicken consisted mostly of the skin, and the rest simply didn't look that appetizing. The Smoked Txitxarro was a simply prepared piece of local mackerel with a swoosh of Cauliflower and Cider (photo: http://bit.ly/2Apf1ms). Truly artful was the Aubergine Confit with Red Tea served with a White Prawn, which showcased a nice contrast of flavors in a few bites (photo: http://bit.ly/2iBCU1W). The Roasted Scallop in Vegetal Broth was where the dinner hit a speed bump as the thick gravy-like sauce was unexpected and unwelcome (photo: http://bit.ly/2zjK8lA). The sauciness turned out to be a pandemic problem.
Case in point was the Begihaundi (Baby Squid) "Risotto" just didn't work as the seafood flavors and the savory flavor of the broth just didn't mesh (photo: http://bit.ly/2hhPrLg). Better was the Bluefin Tuna Belly Pastrami served with Herbs & Curry because the presentation was straightforward (photo: http://bit.ly/2hMJROf). The last two seafood plates suffered again from textural and sauce problems, the Cod Tripe in Red Curry (photo: http://bit.ly/2j6y6Wv) and the Bonito from the Golf of Biscay in Dark Broth (photo: http://bit.ly/2ycKKpv). Neither could transcend the unappetizing texture, and we started to worry about what after-effects could occur. Fortunately, the Suckling Lamb Shoulder served with a Spice Emulsion brought us back to terra firma in the meal's climax with a savory heartiness and crispy skin (photo: http://bit.ly/2zkdIHC). Dessert also helped probably because there was less room for error.
There was a creation called The Sea, a seawater granita followed by a bowl of sorbets and mousses made with other less aquatic flavors (photo: http://bit.ly/2hhF0ra) followed by a very mellow Saffron Crème Brûlée with Pear and Frozen Amaretto (photo: http://bit.ly/2lZtx0X) which officially ended the marathon meal. There were bite-size confections that were less petit-four-like and more simple goodies like mini-pound cakes with poppy seeds and gumdrops (photo: http://bit.ly/2hOtFfx). All in all, it was a roller coaster of highs and lows with chef/owner Álvaro Garrido's culinary talents not in doubt. However, his sauce-laden approach and his experiments with texture brought decidedly mixed results, especially compared to similar-level meals we experienced at Suculent and 4amb5 in Barcelona. BTW, there's no relation to Michael Mina in case you were wondering.
FOOD - 3 stars...artistry was there, flavors and textures were more spotty in some cases
AMBIANCE - 4.5 stars...clean Scandinavian-style décor with the Barra seating a must if you're a genuine foodie
SERVICE - 4 stars...very quiet with little interaction but they are accommodating
TOTAL - 3 stars...a marginally disappointing experience given the social media pre-hype