Retsina & Mousaka

"Retsina and Mousaka, run by Cypriot couple Angelo and Maria, at once captures the transportive energy of an island taverna and a raucous, affably belligerent family kitchen — where overcooking the sheftalia would be both a mortal sin and something to be laughed about over pita maybe thirty seconds later. Humming with coriander seed and grill-blistered caul, there’s no such concern here — meanwhile souvla, blushing not just from perfectly judged grilling but its massaging with red wine and oregano, is in a slanging match with kleftiko about who is more tender. Start with tarama, rich like a marine face pack and served in great bowlfuls, as it was before every London chef betrayed its abundant richness into dinky fashion." - James Hansen

"The charmingly slapdash decor, with walls covered by pots, pans, family photographs, and flags is always a good sign for a Greek restaurant. Chef Angelo runs the kitchen, while his wife Maria greets and serves diners, and the restaurant has a reputation for both the quality of service and the homely, flavourful cooking. Retsina and Mousaka serve dishes like Yayya (that’s grandma) makes them — no picture perfect plates here, just large, overflowing portions of comfort food. The meat mezze is amongst the most affordable on this list, at £22, but there’s also a fish mezze for £25, which includes the popular butterfly king prawns, marinated in olive oil, oregano, and lemon juice, and cooked slowly over a charcoal grill." - Chris Cotonou