Retsina & Mousaka
Permanently Closed
Generous portions of traditional Greek Cypriot food
Generous portions of traditional Greek Cypriot food
"Retsina and Mousaka, run by Cypriot couple Angelo and Maria, at once captures the transportive energy of an island taverna and a raucous, affably belligerent family kitchen — where overcooking the sheftalia would be both a mortal sin and something to be laughed about over pita maybe thirty seconds later. Humming with coriander seed and grill-blistered caul, there’s no such concern here — meanwhile souvla, blushing not just from perfectly judged grilling but its massaging with red wine and oregano, is in a slanging match with kleftiko about who is more tender. Start with tarama, rich like a marine face pack and served in great bowlfuls, as it was before every London chef betrayed its abundant richness into dinky fashion." - James Hansen
"The charmingly slapdash decor, with walls covered by pots, pans, family photographs, and flags is always a good sign for a Greek restaurant. Chef Angelo runs the kitchen, while his wife Maria greets and serves diners, and the restaurant has a reputation for both the quality of service and the homely, flavourful cooking. Retsina and Mousaka serve dishes like Yayya (that’s grandma) makes them — no picture perfect plates here, just large, overflowing portions of comfort food. The meat mezze is amongst the most affordable on this list, at £22, but there’s also a fish mezze for £25, which includes the popular butterfly king prawns, marinated in olive oil, oregano, and lemon juice, and cooked slowly over a charcoal grill." - Chris Cotonou
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