Gilbert A.
Yelp
Intimate with an old-world charm that one finds in cities across Europe, St. Paul's Rice Park is the heart and savior of an otherwise dull and spiritless downtown. Under the strain of torpid city planners who lack any sense of vision, the park lingers in the unrealized potential of a world-class town square.
A number of formidable St. Paul institutions frame the block-shaped Rice Park. Oldest among these is the north facing Landmark Center, a Romanesque Revivalist jewel that houses several Twin Cities arts organizations. The luxurious, crescent shaped St. Paul Hotel faces the park from the southeast, blending well with its Renaissance Revival neighbor, the St. Paul Central Library. Rounding out this quartet of magnificent architecture is the Ordway Center for Performing Arts, the primary stage of the St. Paul Chamber Orchestra, Minnesota Opera, Schubert Club, and a host of Broadway plays. Constructed in respectable scale, this modern, copper-lined and glass-paneled building avoids disrupting the integrity of the surrounding designs.
Though adorned with a pleasant fountain at its center and a generous supply of built-in benches, Rice Park is looked at less as a destination than as a pathway for those venturing into or out of the area's attractions (the Science Museum and Xcel Energy Center are also nearby). Its heaviest usage comes during the St. Paul Winter Carnival, when sculptors, in what must be described as a labor of love, brave the cold January air, crafting images and shapes out of ice.
Winter is also the season when the trees in the park are laced with an intricate web of lights. At night the scene evokes a kind of Nordic grace that seems inspired by Helsinki, Copenhagen or Oslo, helping us forget about the staid, impersonal modernism that typifies most American cities west of the Mississippi.
The stone-lined roads of the park's perimeter are connected to half a dozen arterial streets pulling away from the park, leading outward to the many points of (dis)interest in downtown St. Paul. If you follow the road north of the hotel, you'll find a cozy Caribou Coffee tucked away at an angle, though it really ought to be facing the park directly.
My amateur-designer impulse would find room for a book store somewhere along the park, as well as a New York style deli that can create a culture of newspaper stands and late night snacking. Of course, to generate this demand more housing is needed in the vicinity, and St. Paul has exiled much of its residential units to the eastern edge of the downtown, several blocks away.
Despite its imperfections (none of the intrinsic), Rice Park possesses the basic tools for St. Paul to be elevated to greatness, offering us glimpses of an urban cosmopolitanism that we all seem to long for.