ROKU KYOTO, LXR Hotels & Resorts
Resort hotel · Kyoto-shi
44-1 Kinugasa Kagamiishicho, Kita Ward, Kyoto, 603-8451, Japan
Highlights
Serene mountain retreat with Ayurvedic spa, dining, and pools
Serene mountain retreat with Ayurvedic spa, dining, and pools
"A remote, minimalist retreat on the northern edge of Kyoto with 114 understated rooms facing the tree-covered Takagamine Mountains; guests can participate in hands-on workshops with local artisans on traditional ceramics, paper making, and tea ceremonies to deepen their connection to regional crafts and culture." - Kathryn Romeyn
"Why book? Kyoto is synonymous with its busy temple trails, pagodas peeking over an urban skyline, narrow grid-lined streets, and old wooden townhouses. But Roku Kyoto casts a light on a very different side of the ancient capital, with serene contemporary spaces bathed in nature in the foothills of the mountains that fringe the northern edges of the city. More luxury resort than city hotel—and pretty big by Kyoto standards—the modern complex not only showcases an elegant Japanese design lifestyle it dubs “Kyoto Simplicity,” but it’s also a place to stop, slow down, and recharge after the (typically exhausting) intensity of ticking off a plethora of must-see sights in central Kyoto. Set the scene It’s just 30 minutes by car from the bustle of Kyoto Station and the city center, yet it doesn’t take long to tap into Roku Kyoto’s very different tempo. The hotel is located in the spacious green confines of Shozan Resort Kyoto, a decades-old complex spanning nearly 29 acres created by a kimono-making family in the early 1950s. It hugs the foothills of Takagamine Mountain, whose curved forest-fringed lines imprint the skies and dominate the hotel’s views. The atmosphere treads a finely-honed line between grown-up contemporary luxury and traditional Kyoto, with modern echos of temple aesthetics in the hotel’s minimalist architecture (by Blink Design Group, based in Bangkok and Singapore)—clean-lined expanses of light woods, vertical pillars, and external walkways beneath pitched roofs, all connected by cloud-reflecting water pools and gardens of seasonal blooms, from maples to cherry trees. The backstory It was in this quiet, nature-packed corner of Kyoto, more than 400 years earlier, that the legendary Rinpa school of Japanese painting was born, courtesy of the epoch-defining artist Hon’ami Koetsu. (His 17th century home and the small artist village he founded alongside it are now a tiny scenic temple, well worth the ten-minute electric bike ride up the steep mountain from the hotel to visit.) The hotel—the first Asia Pacific outpost of the luxury Hilton brand LXR Hotels & Resorts—reflects this creative legacy in an encyclopedic spectrum of craftsmanship: from bamboo artworks in its restaurant Tenjin and bold abstract rock sculptures in the spa, to decorative kyo-karakami Kyoto paper touches in the guest rooms. The end result is a retreat as sedate as it’s stylish—just like the well-dressed couples doing perfectly-executed laps in the hot spring onsen outdoor swimming pool (a rare five-star luxury in Kyoto), or reading art books over bespoke tea blends in wabi-sabi ceramics in the airy modern tea house. The rooms It’s hard not to exhale and quickly leave behind city life upon entering the 114 guest rooms, with their serene, neutral palettes, contemporary lines, crafted touches, and walls of windows, most framing peaceful mountain views. Woven headboards with abstract motifs, expanses of decorative woodblock printed paper known as kyo-karakami made by Kyoto artisans, bespoke tea ceramics, and wooden lattice partitions add touches of warmth to the contemporary spaces. In-room treats range from aromatic rosemary and chia amenities by British brand Votary in the sleek, stone bathrooms, to fun pairings of drinks and Kyoto-made snacks in the minibar (anyone for some Japanese vodka and rainbow-bright candy, or Suntory whisky with dried fruits?). Among the range of five room types, a favorite are the first-floor Garden Deluxe rooms, which open onto a small and private Japanese-style walled garden, with stones, moss, and artfully positioned seasonal trees. But the best part of these rooms are the deep windowside black stone baths, into which natural hot spring onsen water gushes directly from the tap, perfectly paired with the hotel’s aromatic hinoki cypress wood bath salts. (For full blissed out effect, before sinking into the bath, fling open the wall of glass windows and then watch steam rising from the water surface as the mountain breeze cools your face.) Other in-demand rooms are the Poolside Deluxe rooms, airy white escapes with very spacious but private walled outdoor terraces that open directly onto the thermal poolside area. Food and drink The heartbeat of the hotel is the restaurant Tenjin, named after the river that flows right past its outdoor terrace, lined with momiji maple trees (a poetic riot of red in autumn—a stunning time of year to visit). The restaurant resembles a modern temple to Kyoto gastronomy, with its airy pitched wood ceiling, clean-lined contemporary seating, walls of glass, and bamboo artworks. Loosely divided into different zones, there is the All-Day Dining area, where food creatively fuses modern French styles with seasonal Kyoto influences—from a delicious, laid-back buffet and à la carte breakfast packed with fresh salads, fruits, and pastries to an elegant lunch menu. But the icing on the cake is the dinner-only Chef’s Table. Here, at a 13-seat black counter beneath a vast tiered paper lighting installation (created by traditional paper umbrella artisans in Kyoto), talented Chef de Cuisine Akira Taniguchi and his team perform a dramatic culinary performance called “Rinpa Reflection,” involving ten innovative contemporary courses on a medley of sculptural ceramics. Recent early spring highlights ranged from scampi, bamboo, and sakura shrimp on softly circular Arita ceramics; local wild boar with wasabi leaf; the signature Vegetable Garden, a refreshing burst of 20 house-grown vegetables, flowers, and herbs; and the mouth-melting surprise of chèvre goat's cheese, charcoal, and miso in the form of a light gray ice cream-like creation. Cocktails are served in The Bar, an intimate space with a very Instagrammable signature drink: Hana Monogatari (or “Flower Story”), an exquisitely pretty clutch of seasonal flowers soaked in a gin-based cocktail poured from a round glass decanter. A mix of bespoke Kyoto tea blends, with ingredients such as rose, ginger, and cinnamon, are also served in the Tea House. The spa To maximize the relaxation effect, a visit to Roku Spa should not be missed. Here, an exquisite scattering of textured Daté Kan rocks from Okurayama Studio in northern Japan (once a much-loved source of rocks for sculptor Isamu Noguchi) sit alongside a large glass vase of springtime blossoms, setting a peaceful tone. Start with a swim (or, in my case, a lazy sky-gazing float) in the just-warm-enough waters of the 82-foot outdoor thermal pool, before heading to one of three treatment rooms—cocooning enclaves of forest green tiles, light woods, and dim lights. Here, treatments begin with an unusual ritual, which I discover when I’m politely ordered to toss a scattering of small pieces of cedar-scented washi paper over my shoulders, a peaceful purification process. Treatment highlights include the Signature Tenjingawa stone massage, with stones first soaked and “purified” in the nearby Tenjin River, before being used to heated muscle-melting effect in an aromatic oil massage. The neighborhood/area The setting may be peaceful and a bit far-flung from the city center, but there are places to explore on its doorstep. The Shozan Resort Kyoto itself, a spacious expanse of land in the shadow of Takagamine Mountain, is home to a string of winding walkways, gardens, several restaurants, a bonsai shop, and several hotels (including the Aman). One good way to explore is to enjoy a Meditation Walk with spa staff—wandering through the scenic Japanese gardens near the hotel, famed for their pruned-to-perfection kitayama cedar trees, with clusters of vertical branches shooting up to the sky, pausing only to breathe through a guided meditation practice surrounded by seasonal foliage. The hotel can also arrange electric bicycle rental—perfect for exploring nearby temples and sites. Kinkakuji, the famous Golden Pavilion, is very close, while the smaller Koetsu-ji temple, devoted to the artist Hon’ami Koetsu, is also a short (but steep) cycle away. Alternatively, hop in a taxi to tick off some downtown tourist sites, before leaving the crowds and returning to unwind at Roku Kyoto with an exhale. The service Staff are young, savvy, and friendly—treading just the right line between being unwaveringly helpful, without making you feel uncomfortably compelled to bow on repeat, as can sometimes be the case in more traditional Japanese establishments. It’s worth joining the daily Art Tour with the concierge team, offering some insight into the 500-plus curated crafts and artworks that scatter the property. (Among them? A priceless haul of decades-old unglazed ceramics found abandoned in an old climbing kiln in Kyoto, which were subsequently glazed and refashioned for the hotel—now used everywhere from guest room displays to restaurant table tops.) Activities are also thoughtful and high quality, from an outdoor paper washi-making session with the innovative contemporary artist Kazuya Yamaguchi, which kicks off with some water-scooping from the Tenjin River, to crafting a piece of pottery at one of Kyoto’s historic kilns, using soil from the grounds of Roku Kyoto. For families While the peaceful atmosphere feels quite grown-up, the hotel emphasizes that children of all ages are welcome. The Thermal Pools are open to children (during limited hours of the day), with the Poolside Deluxe Rooms perhaps being one of the best options for families. Added to the family-friendly mix are children’s menus, a string of in-room amenities (from pajamas to toothbrushes), and activities including a Roku Kyoto Backstage Tour (a kids-only concierge-led tour behind the scenes of the hotel) and Roku Treasure Hunting event across Shozan Resort Kyoto. Eco effort The hotel enthusiastically embraces one of Japan’s more traditional forms of sustainability—kintsugi, the art of repairing broken ceramics, normally using a trace of lacquer and a sprinkling of gold leaf. All breakages are swiftly sent to local Kyoto kintsugi artisans to be fixed before being returned to the hotel. Other efforts include water in paper and glass containers plus aluminum-packaged bathroom amenities, as well as a shift towards paperless guest rooms, with most services and information available via large flat-screen TVs. Accessibility All of the hotel’s facilities are wheelchair accessible, with ramps also set near the arrival area and next to the Thermal Pool. Anything left to mention? This is the kind of hotel worth visiting for at least two nights in order to fully wind down. It’s admittedly a very different atmosphere—and experience—from many hotels that scatter more central neighborhoods, making it a good place to finish up a Kyoto visit after ticking off the key tourist attractions. Finally, in 100 words or less, what makes this hotel worthy of Hot List? It’s rare to find this high-quality mix of space, serenity, nature, and contemporary design in Kyoto, a city long famed for its more densely-packed, urban-style accommodation. And we have to again mention That Outdoor Pool, which is perhaps the ultimate luxury in this ancient capital." - Danielle Demetriou
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