Will S.
Yelp
WowwwwZZZZ! The BEST meal I've had in Berlin this last trip was at Weinbar Rutz. It was crowded when I went and Ummmm was hesitant because of the Michelin star. From seafood paluto restos in Manila to raw food dining in Sicily, my taste is not governed by Michelin stars/Zagat ratings. Michelin/Zagat systems do not have a world reach. My palate enjoys global influences as is true of lots of world foodies. My fave social dining app, Yelp (what else) led me here. Yay for sites like Yelp and tripadvisor because you see everyone else's points of view, and not just Michelin or Zagat. But whatev, sometimes I just say the hell with it. Plus, I'm really an igno about German wines and this place boasted its collection so off I went.
Ambience
You walk into Rutz and you are greeted warmly, the environment brown wood tones, professional service, luna lighting, and wine bottles grazing an entire wall. That's the casual section of the Rutz. The restaurant upstairs is the more formal serious if not exclusive. I didn't have a reservation. I was hoping for the casual first floor as I walked in from the cold snowy evening, a friend to meet for dinner and was honestly unsure they were gonna let me in without a reservation. They did.
Opened. The menu (looks daunting but not really) was simply laid out, reasonably priced, and since this was my first visit here, my waiter, recommended German wine pairings with the dishes I selected. I selected a prix fixe of 3 dishes and wine pairings I deferred to him.
First course:
Roasted black pudding,with leeks, snap peas, vegetables. Black pudding, a global ingredient not for the faint but more for palates with an appreciation for the 'acquired' but also for 'green'.
Served on a small saucepan, the dish was beautiful. I sat back, paused because I use this same saucepan often. Strange eating out of a pan but, it was inventive so I was open. I sliced into black pudding the spoon pierced into the soft, quivering globe to reveal a light and hinting a creamy (vs. cakey) and earth flavors....so good. It had that firm freshness you'd expect from a classic souffle, cushiony, not minerally like most blood puddings... elegant. That, was countered with wok crisp veggies weird but the sugar hints from the snap peas, teasing carrots, melded with the souffle like a the sugar crispness of a creme brulee . Super happy. My waiter produced a Wachenheimer Riesling Tocken that went uber delicious with this stunner of a dish. A riesling with blood pudding?...... Yes I was turned around but my waiter gave a taste first and ooooh, the riesling was flowery, not sweet (as one would expect) with notes of crisp dewy grapes.
Second Course:
Mangalitsa baby backs (it looked appetizingly good fall off the bone good) served with a towel drove me to dive into it before my iPhone could capture the plate. For this my waiter produced a taster, a Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc. I was told only one 500 liter cask was produced for this award winning vintage. The pork was milky soft enhanced by the poppy seeds, browned shallots... I loved the dish, never thought poppy seeds that went well with spare ribs. Then the wine.....there was a fragrance to the sauvignon blanc so distinctive, the nose so delicious, someone should come up with a cologne with this essence. I took a sip and it was like no other SB I've tasted. It profiled a crisp wine, neutral acidity, mild honey, a fragrance to die for that you kept drinking. First time for me to pair this great white with ribs, not the last.
Third Course:
Finally, my final dish a Holstein ox shoulder, braised low and slow for 22+ hours, served with a puree of beans and veggies came. Silent awe. With this, my waiter Fido, produced a Pinot Noir type, a Spatburgunder, Salwey. You take a bite of the "braised steak" and you are overcome with flavors, coarse salt, texture of a dish simple yet refined, tasty.......still craving this dish. The braising liquid was soft and developed as thought the meat bathed in it on a very low simmer. With the wine, this dish sang trills like a German opera. Stunned and amazed.
Dessert:
A warm orisini chocolate souffle with varieties of apple cooked in Bavarian liqueur with a side of almond ice cream capped the surprising meal that turned my expectations sideways........content, full, happy.
I tried the 3 course meal prix fixe, pricewise (fair) and understand why Weinbar Rutz has a Michelin. The wine pairings surprised me. Amazing. The dishes are evolved, well presented, well developed. When returning to Berlin, I will SOO be back to try the upper restaurant.
One less star, I received too many stares from the staff for taking fotos. It was dark in the room, no flash. The dishes melded from one to the other, elegant. Genius German wines!!
Tip: Reserve a table. Walk-ins not accepted. I think I got lucky because I looked hungry :)
Visits: 1