Loo Y.
Google
Tucked into a narrow alley just south-west of Sirkeci station, this modest eatery holds a reputation that far outstrips its size. The set-up is simple: a few tables outside, an upstairs and downstairs inside, and one thing only on the menu – cağ kebap.
Unlike its more common döner cousin, this Erzurum speciality is roasted horizontally on a spit. From my seat, I could watch the usta carve generous slices, their aroma filling the small dining room and drifting out onto Hocapaşa Sokak.
The ritual is as much part of the meal as the food itself. Flatbread, chili paste, crisp salad, and thick buffalo yoghurt arrive alongside the kebap. I did the dürüm thing – layering, rolling, biting in – and suddenly everything made sense. The cool salad checked the heat of the paste, the yoghurt softened the spice, and the kebap itself, tender and perfectly seasoned, sang through it all.
I raised my hand for another portion without hesitation. It was a complete harmony of flavour, the kind of meal that makes you stop and simply smile.
A perfect 10/10.