Nagorno-Karabakh

Somewhere in the wilderness of Nagorno-Karabakh (Artsakh), near Jdrduz Canyon in Shushi Bourdain ate: jingalov hats (“lavash bread stuffed with greens and onions before being toasted atop a cast-iron sheet”), Armenian barbecue covered in fennel and fresh herbs (“meat on a stick, which, let’s face it, is always good”). Lunch dates: Tigran Grigoryan, a war veteran and aspiring politician; Tatul Hakobyan, a journalist; Saro Saryan, an Armenian born in Azerbaijan who fled during the war.