Bredgy L.
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Some restaurants make me want to come back every day, but not this one, as it’s only open for weekend brunch, so mark your calendars unless you want to wait a bunch. The Safavid is the miracle alarm clock that actually jolts your taste buds awake - three crisped sunnyside-up eggs with a jammy yolk, partnered with the mini lamb meatballs that are astonishingly juicy and savory, perfumed with sumac for a subtle tart lift to the rich caprine aromas. The plate comes alive with its sides: feta, cucumber, radish, pickled cabbage, and pomegranate-marinated olives (zeytoon parvardeh) that bring a sweet, tangy complexity. Each bite wrapped in toasted flatbread, slightly blistered and crisp, becomes a display in contrasts: richness and freshness, salt and tang, chew and crunch, brimming with balance, and you’ll be well rewarded eating with your hands. Further highlighting the ubiquitous presence of flatbread, a humble yet deeply satisfying dip of smoky eggplant, garlic and tomatoes presents a tender richness, carrying a gentle tang and underlying sweetness from the tomatoes, while the smokiness is profound but never acrid, and benefits from a touch more salt. Doubling down on lamb, this classic Persian stew, consisting of chickpeas, white beans, potatoes, tomatoes, and our caprine friend feels more like a ritual than a meal. First, you pour out the soup, then mash the tender solids into a rich paste. The tomato-based broth glows with a subtle acidity and sweetness that frame the lamb’s deep aroma beautifully, spiced with an earthy, piquant Persian blend. The lamb itself is beautifully tender, with both lean and rendered fatty pieces that melt on the tongue, releasing a clean, lamby richness. Chickpeas and beans lend body and creaminess, while the potato gives it a rustic heft. The pickled torshi cuts through all that richness with a mellow, acidic tang, while the flatbread soaks all the goodness up.