El Ateneo Grand Splendid

Another Dance with Buenos Aires, the City I Once Called Home

"A bohemian barrio known for its colonial architecture, tango culture, and vibrant markets. It was once home to the author and retains its artistic charm."

2 Days in Buenos Aires

"Housed in a splendid early‑20th‑century theater, this stunning bookstore—considered the largest in South America—retains its original railings and a cupola adorned with 20‑meter‑diameter frescoes, making even a quick browse feel special." - The MICHELIN Guide

Best Things to Do in Buenos Aires

"Set in the former Teatro Gran Splendid (dating from 1919), I find Ateneo Grand Splendid to be one of the world's most dramatic bookstores, with gilt balconies and a painted ceiling dome that make it worth visiting even though English selections are limited." - Harrison Pierce Harrison Pierce Harrison Pierce is a freelance writer and digital nomad passionate about personal finance and travel. He is traveling full-time with the help of points and miles and enjoys connecting with people on the ground. His work has been published in Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, USA Today Blueprint, Matador Network, and other publications.  Travel + Leisure Editorial Guidelines

Buenos Aires Travel Guide

"A spectacular bookstore housed in a 1919 theater that retains its ornate original fixtures; the dramatic space is filled floor-to-ceiling with books and the former stage now hosts a café, making it a must-see for bibliophiles and architecture lovers alike." - Megan Wood Megan Wood Megan Wood is a hotel and travel expert. Her writing has appeared in The New York Times, Refinery29, Vice, Apartment Therapy, Self, and Cosmopolitan. She currently resides in Milwaukee and her favorite hotel is the One&Only Palmilla in Baja. Travel + Leisure Editorial Guidelines

"El Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookstore Buenos Aires is a city of readers—it supports more bookstores per capita than any other place in the world. The crown jewel of the librerías here is the Ateneo Grand Splendid. Housed in a theater where music legends such as Carlos Gardel once attracted vast crowds, the store features shelf after shelf of tempting volumes on its rounded balconies. Italian frescoes on the domed ceiling and plush red-velvet curtains are from the theater’s original 1919 design. The four-story space carries over 120,000 books and a local-music selection, and there’s a café on the erstwhile stage. By Travesías"