SAKURA MACHI Kumamoto

Sakurako Omakase Restaurant Opens in Komasa Space in LA’s Little Tokyo | Eater LA

"At the former Komasa space on Second Street I encountered chef Kimiyasu’s latest omakase, Sakurako, which centers on a low L-shaped wood counter that seats nine (the restaurant is currently seating only at the bar). The team includes head chef Akira Yoshida, master chef Tatsuki Kurogi, and pastry chef Shota Takaki; Kurogi opens service with six to seven composed appetizers informed by his training at kappo-style Kigawa and kaiseki-style Nadaman and by sourcing from local farmers markets. Starters are presented like table art and can include komatsuna in dashi broth, wagyu roast beef with egg yolk sauce and watercress, shrimp with baby turnip, kabocha and snap peas, pickled dried squid and kelp, and deep-fried sawagani river crabs (so fresh that, as noted, they once escaped their container and crawled around the kitchen). Sashimi plates may feature king mackerel with onion sauce, flake salt and fresh wasabi alongside amaebi, uni sauce and caviar. Yoshida then delivers a parade of seasonal nigiri sushi — the main focus of the omakase — and was recently serving the season’s first bluefin tuna chu-toro overshari after training at a range of Michelin-starred restaurants in Japan and at Sakai in Frankfurt. Takaki, who spent a decade as a pastry chef in Kumamoto, serves fully plated desserts such as a honey and kumquat mousse topped with orange slices and finger biscuits, dotted with raspberry sauce and dried kumquat. Beverage options are a curated selection of craft beer, small-producer sake and wine with pairings planned for the future. Sakurako offers seatings on Tock at 7 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday and at 5 p.m. and 8 p.m. Friday to Sunday for $250 per person before tax, beverages and tip (a $100 deposit is required), with limited walk-ins; the report also lists reservations on Tock for $280 per person." - Matthew Kang