Eugene N.
Yelp
Review Title: "Sampino's Kitchen: A Nobleman's Dinner, A Bar's Missed Opportunity"
Broadway, North of Land Park - In the Shadow of the Tower
On the northern edge of Land Park, where the city begins to murmur instead of sleep, stands the iconic Tower Theatre--a storied beacon where Tower Records was born, in what was once a humble pharmacy. It is surrounded by legacy: Tower Café, a cigar shop, and Sampino's Kitchen--the subject of today's noble dispatch.
Now before the commoners panic: Yes, my long-awaited review of Tower Café is still forthcoming. It is, after all, one of Sacramento's most beloved and controversial establishments, and will require the kind of literary scaffolding usually reserved for state constitutional amendments. But for now, the noble lens turns to Sampino's, tucked into the bones of the former Joe Marty's--a bar that once stood as legend among Sacramento's saloon elite.
Sampino's does many things well:
* The ambiance is intimate and fitting for dinners among friends and longtime acquaintances.
* The staff? Impeccable. True stewards of hospitality.
* The food? Quite simply--good. I'm partial to the meat lasagna, a flavorful $30 reminder that Italian-American comfort still has its rightful place.
You feel welcome at Sampino's. You feel at home.
But--ah yes--there's always that "but."
Like a woman who has everything but lacks spark, Sampino's seems to forget the bar is part of the courtship ritual. The wine list is respectable, yes--but the bourbon selection is anemic. For a restaurant with charm, tradition, and warmth, why such an oversight? It's like dressing for the opera and forgetting your shoes.
I, along with another nobleman, once made the generous offer to advise on two bottles that would elevate the experience. The bartender accepted our counsel graciously, but alas, I fear our wisdom was lost in the night air. Perhaps the owners believe they don't need bourbon to win hearts--but they're missing mine, and my coin.
Contrast that with the Broadway Samurai at Fuji's, who took my $6 and handed me Old Forester and a spicy Dragon Roll ($8 happy hour) that cured ailments both physical and philosophical. That's the difference. That's the extra star.
Still, I wish Sampino's the best. I will return. I will eat, I will toast, I will laugh. But until their bar is given the attention it deserves, it remains a 4-star affair, with the fifth star locked behind the bar--guarded by indifference and a sadly unopened bottle of Blanton's
