Kevin Rieth
Google
Ambience
The fine dining restaurant of Santerra is located in the basement of the main establishment, well separated from the more casual dining area. The setting is elegant and intimate, creating a refined atmosphere that immediately conveys exclusivity. Unfortunately, while the ambience sets high expectations, both the food and service fell noticeably short.
Service
The service was one of the weakest aspects of the evening. Explanations of the dishes were mumbled and difficult to understand, and even when comprehensible, the descriptions rarely went beyond what was already listed on the menu. Considering the complexity of the cuisine and the relatively quiet dining room, this lack of engagement felt disappointing.
Furthermore, after declining the wine pairing at the beginning, we were briefly asked about alternatives. Once those drinks were finished, however, there was no further follow-up on additional beverages or even water – an inattentiveness not expected at a Michelin-starred level.
Cuisine
The 16-course tasting menu is ambitious and deeply rooted in the culinary traditions of La Mancha, reinterpreted through a modern lens. In concept, this was well executed, yet the actual experience was uneven.
Low points: The frequent use of offal created a recurring bitter undertone across several dishes. The Royal Duck, presented as one of the highlights of the evening, had an overpowering flavor and a crumbly, unappealing texture. A pre-dessert accompanied by chicken skin chips felt overly fatty and carried an aroma more reminiscent of a fast-food stall than of refined dining. Similarly, the roe deer dish was paired with a sauce based on anchovies – overly sharp, slightly fishy, and distracting from the otherwise strong main component. The quail was tasty but cumbersome to eat, with meat that clung stubbornly to the bone.
Highlights: Among the few truly memorable dishes was the Wild Boar Parfait with Calvados and Reinette Apples. This course beautifully balanced sweetness, acidity, saltiness, umami, and smoky roasted notes, showing the kitchen’s full potential when all elements came together in harmony.
Conclusion
While Santerra’s tasting menu carries ambition and a strong conceptual foundation, the execution left much to be desired. With too many courses marred by heavy flavors or for us rather unusual flavor combnations, only a handful of dishes stood out as memorable. Combined with inattentive service, the overall experience lacked the finesse and consistency one would expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant.