Fabrizio Goria
Google
Tucked away in the heart of Turin, Scatto is a compact yet impeccably curated restaurant that quietly radiates ambition. The open kitchen is nothing short of a showpiece: a stage for precision, choreography, and creative intensity. It’s immediately clear that this is a place aiming high—perhaps even toward a Michelin star. And frankly, if Scatto were located in London, I suspect it would already have one.
My wife and I opted for à la carte, each choosing from opposite ends of the culinary spectrum. I leaned traditional, selecting three cornerstones of Piemontese cuisine: vitello tonnato, agnolotti del plin, and beef—each prepared with technical rigor and a profound respect for regional heritage. She went the other way entirely, chasing bolder, more cosmopolitan flavors: a vibrant Thai tom yum, a surprising spaghettone with butter and miso, and a delicately seared turbot.
Two separate wine pairings accompanied our divergent menus, both expertly chosen and executed with finesse. It’s rare to see a kitchen handle such a broad range of flavors with this level of control, but Scatto not only manages—it thrives.
The plin were a particular high point. Their roasted meat jus—rich, silky, and layered—was arguably the best I’ve had in Turin, surpassing even more established names. That dish alone spoke volumes about the kitchen’s skill and ambition.
Desserts at Scatto challenge conventions in the best way. My wife’s choice, a caprese reimagined as a savory-leaning “non-dessert,” was both provocative and satisfying. I opted for a pepper and watermelon taco—light, fresh, and clever. These aren’t just palate cleansers; they’re conceptual full stops, echoing the meal’s playful creativity.
The service, meanwhile, was on par with top-tier fine dining. Attentive without being intrusive, confident without being rehearsed. The staff clearly know the menu inside and out, and they navigate the experience with grace.
If I had to find fault, it would be the air conditioning: a touch too noisy for a room that otherwise invites intimacy and focus. Still, it’s a minor quibble in a space that delivers so much.
We walked in with no expectations. We left impressed, delighted, and already planning our return. Scatto is a restaurant in motion—one to revisit as the Costardi brothers continue to push boundaries, month after month.
Score: 8.5/10. Strong contender for its first star.
