Alison M.
Yelp
This was the shrine I wanted to see most while in Japan and I saved it as the last thing I did, on the last day in Japan before I flew home.
It's VERY crowded, it's also very hot if you come in mid-May like I did. The sun is not forgiving and I would wear a hat, bring plenty of water, and use sunscreen.
The hike is not long, but it is a solid uphill climb once you start - to get to the top of Mt. Inari. It's worth it - if only so you can see the beautiful Tori gates without all the crowds of people.
Once I got about halfway up - there were only about 2-3 people passing me every several hundred yards. It really thins out. This may have been due to the heat, but it was nice. You can take some beautiful photos with no one in them and you will get gorgeous views of Kyoto from a vantage point about halfway up.
The actual shrine and main buildings are at the bottom and are gorgeous but so crowded it was almost unbearable with both Japanese and other tourists as well as school children. There are several vendors and shops selling wares so you can shop down here and find some items as keepsakes and have some authentic, street-food snacks.
This is a major Japanese tourist attraction as well as for visiting tourists so it's probably the most crowded thing I saw aside from Senso-Ji in Tokyo. Be prepared to deal with crowds and, when you first get to the tori gates, barely any room to walk because you are packed into the small, enclosed hallway of orange gates that everyone wants to see and take photos in which is one-way for a period of time.
The gates continue ALL the way up and back down the mountain so take heart if you can't get any good pics just here, if you keep going for a while, trust me, you will be able to and it opens up much wider so you can walk freely with people coming and going both ways and plenty of room. There is also a great photo-op off to the right of the bathrooms at the first stop-off shrine you'll come to once you exit those first tight one-way gates. If you go down a small hillside and short path you'll see it. You can get some great shots there and there is a small bamboo forest you can walk around in for 10-15 minutes.
There are small areas to stop and rest every so often on the way up and they have drink machines and some small shops with either snacks or local touristy items. There really isn't much at the top - shrine complexes (think concrete areas with candles and small wooden tori gates for prayer) but there are no more large buildings and there is no big payoff. The gates are what you came to see on the hike - or the scenic overlook of Kyoto mid-way up. The main shrine buildings are at the bottom.
The mountain is open 24 hours a day which is neat - you can actually hike it whenever you want - but it would be really eerie at dark to me and they warn if you are going to do that to be careful on the steep, old stairs. Also, there are wild animals about which probably come out at night.
The JR line will bring you directly in front of this site - it's across the street - if you take it from Kyoto station to the JR Inari station. You can't come to Kyoto and not see this place. It is the main shrine of the kami: Inari.
It's cool and I'm so so so so glad I did the entire hike up and down. Be warned, there are A LOT of steps, some are old and uneven, some areas need repair, so if you are infirm or very out of shape, it will be difficult for you. If you are in decent shape and like to hike, run, walk, you need to do it. You're here and there are thousands or tori gates waiting for you.