Dave C.
Yelp
The atmosphere was understated and elegant: warm copper and bronze tones in the walls are picked up in everything from the lampshade linings to the fresh arrangements of autumn flowers. Cream and silver accents are punctuated by flashes of pink flowers in the table vases. Inoffensive world music played quietly in the background.
The service is excellent and attentive without being overbearing. Seating and menu were prompt, and a slight wobble in the table was noticed immediately and fixed by the staff. The waitress had an easy charm.
I had the seven course chef's tasting menu:
To start, there was hot-out-of-the oven multigrain bread and butter, served on a beautiful olive wood board.
1) A trio of a Smoked Salmon Spiral, Salmon Rillette, topped with arugula, and Cucumber Bas frois with creme fraiche and a swipe of saffron mayo. The overall effect was smooth, verdant, and light - nice way to whet the palate.
2) Baked duck breast with compote and white bread brioche with a balsamic vinaigrette drizzle. The peppery arugula nicely complemented the earthiness of the duck.
3) Corn soup with cashews, small shrimp, and herb oil - a nice nutty follow-up to the richness of the duck. The sweetness of the corn and cashews reinforced one another, unified by the creamy soup base, accented by the texture of the shrimp, which contrasted with the crunchy cashews.
4) Plaice fillet on a bed of fennel with a peeled cherry tomato on top, accompanied by mashed potatoes with mixed sweet tomato, tart fennel, and salted fish - a soft and subtle interplay of flavors complemented by the soft textures of the mashed potatoes and cooked fennel and greens.
5) Diamond steak with wild spinach, a fried sauerkraut ball, and a potato layer cake with a variety of sauces (an earthy, almost mushroom-flavored au jus, herbal oil, and mustard with a slight hint of honey) - The mineral flavor of the spinach brings out the richness of the steak while the texture of the fried sauerkraut's outside contrasts nicely with the melted inside and tenderness of the beef diamond steak. Meanwhile, the simple potato cake is a refreshingly simple break from the complexity of the other flavors.
6) Cheese plate with grape pear sauce and nut butter: camembert; goat cheese rolled in ashes; and cow's milk cheese with red bacteria (like the kind that produces blue cheese, but red). The pear sauce picks up the fruit in the bread, while balanced out by the nut butter.
7) Cinnamon milkshake and amaretto cheesecake with raspberry and chocolate drizzle - a sweet ending to the evening that wasn't too heavy, whose combination of flavors had an almost lightly smokey aftertaste.
Finally, I was offered a "Senses" chocolate and Dilmah green tea with jasmine flowers and fair trade honey to help keep me warm on the cold walk home.