Phil N.
Yelp
I remember first dining at Slow Bar maybe 15 years ago when bistro burgers were all the rage in Portland and maybe even nationally. A friend of mine was compiling a list of the cities best burgers for one of the newspapers and gave Slow Bar a pretty high ranking. Based off my friend's article, I tried to hit up as many of the places that ranked in the top 20 as I could.
One of the best parts of a bistro burger is how it looks visually. A great bistro burger is so beautifully constructed, the sauces and ingredients are so meticulously thought out to form a burger that is greater than the sum of it's parts, the burger patties usually have custom beef blends that try to optimize for flavor, the best bistro burgers are tall and statuesque and when you look at it with your eyes you believe you can comfortably bite the entire height of the burger, but in reality your eyes are deceiving you because it's just ever so slightly larger than what you can chew.
Slow Bar exhibits all of these traits, but and while it may not have been the best bistro burger in Portland during the height of the bistro burger crazy, it is the only one I believe left still standing amongst the great bistro burgers this town had to offer (Gruner, Le Pigeon, Little Bird, Toro Bravo, Tasty and Sons all come to mind in terms of top tier bistro burgers). What's even better is the house made french fries that actually taste like potatoes. All of the top tier bistro burgers form back in the day didn't often come with sides and for a fair price at $15 you get one of the only surviving bistro burgers but a nice heaping pile of high quality french fries.
So what goes on a Slow Burger? A 1/2 lb ground beef patty from Painted HIlls (which if my memory serves me correct also supplied the then most expensive hamburger in the US in a restaurant in Manhattan that sold for about $99 over a decade ago), a house made hand dipped onion ring, gruyere cheese, butter lettuce (bc iceburg or romaine just isn't good enough for this burger), and a perfectly paired brioche bun that holds up to all of these toppings exceptionally well.
My favorite drug is nostalgia, and the Slow Burger is one of my favorite doses of nostalgia that reminds me of a time when living in Portland was cheap and affordable, safe and clean, and when bistro burgers ruled the restaurant scene.