Rebecca P.
Yelp
Smiths of Smithfield has undergone a few facelifts since it opened in 2000 next to the Smithfield meat market. Spanning across four floors and hosted in a Grade II listed building, it's always boasted impressive environs with modern-industrial-chic details. The ground floor is a bustling hub that dishes out a satisfying and straightforward menu in a casual setting. There are two additional restaurants with more exquisite modern British fare on the upper floors, including a rooftop dining space with panoramic city views. A short walk from Farringdon station, it's a catch-all venue where you can either grab a drink after work, or can dig into a succulent fillet steak in more opulent ambiance. Or you could do both- it only requires migrating between floors.
I admittedly hadn't visited Smiths in over five years until this week. During our last call, we popped in for brunch in the days when John Torode was still owner and overseer of operations- in fact, he was lurking around the restaurant that very afternoon, entertaining family and acquaintances sitting adjacent to our table. Since then, Torode has parted company with Smiths and the business has pulled its socks up- especially the first floor space, which was once a tapas bar, then a cocktail lounge, but now reinvented as a craft beer bar, the Craft Market.
We revisited Smiths, lured in by an event that was taking place at the Craft Market. I'd been tempted by the 'Meet the Brewery' evenings promoted on social media in the past- some laudable London independent breweries were advertised, including Brixton Brewery, East London Brewing Company and Canopy Brewing Co- but I'd never managed to make the journey. Frankly, I've been let down by a glut of City establishments promoted as 'craft beer bars' due to appalling service by staff with no knowledge of their range or gusto at all. Because of such discouraging experiences, I'd erroneously tarred Smith's with the same brush.
We were pleasantly surprised on our visit in August 2016. There to support a friend's event, we lingered for the entire evening and chatted with servers, bar staff and the Operations Manager. One point was immediately apparent: they had a bona fide passion for beer. The hirsute gentleman running the bar had a dry sense of humour and knew the bar's range inside out. He assured us that he personally curated the selection available- and it was a good balance of the classics (Sierra Nevada, Blue Moon, Camden) with the independents, including a selection from Hammerton, Redchurch, London Beer Factory, Kernel and Partizan but to name a few.
The copious bottle selection dominates the room, positioned against the wall behind the bar like a magnificent example of modern art. Bottles can be taken away or swilled onsite- naturally, there are chilled, ready to drink vessels in the fridges- and there's a rotating pick served on draught. For £15, you can pick up 6 bottles to take home in a carrying case, which is both convenient and affordable if you work in the area. Otherwise, the bar itself is cosy, friendly and urbane; we were there on a Wednesday night and there were a few other groups, but the atmosphere was comfortable and relaxed. We even had a decent burger, chips and a pint of the guest draught for a tenner- it was promptly delivered to our table, meaning that we could continue to graze on the beer menu without having to relocate to a different floor for sustenance.
Speaking with the Operations Manager, he informed me that they have big plans for further meet the brewer events at the Craft Market down the line- I was asked what beers I was currently drinking from London breweries and it transpires that the first I mentioned- my local haunt, Howling Hops- was due to be stocked at the bar in the coming weeks.
I can confidently say that I'll be returning to Smiths, especially once more events are announced- the space is the perfect size for a quiet post-work beer. The advantage of having more than one bar in the building allows this area to concentrate on independent breweries, which can be enjoyed in a unexpectedly convivial atmosphere. Paired with friendly and conversant staff, this floor of Smiths is really a gem- and you'll be seeing even more breweries on their shelves soon.
It pains me to spread the word because I'd like to keep this place in my back pocket, especially given the blight of decent drinking venues in the area, but I'm feeling generous after having a few great beers.