Søllerød Kro

No. It was a very personal visit but aside from my priceless and precious dining companions, this was a place I'll never return to. I've experienced Michelin eateries. Not even close.

Located approximately thirty minutes outside of Copenhagen by car, an additional forty for those using a combination of Public Transportation and foot, Søllerød Kro is said by many to be one of Scandinavia's very best Restaurants, the "White Guide" recently awarding it a top 5 position behind the likes of Michelin 3* Geranium and Maaemo in Oslo. Described as "French Cuisine" using local ingredients, though recent reports of Chef Brian Mark Hansen's cooking suggest an increasing element of New Nordic influence, Søllerød Kro is located inside of a 1677 Inn in the middle of a forest, the walk from the bus stop a pleasant one that takes no more than 15 minutes at a steady pace. Awarded one Michelin Star since 2007 but with a lengthy history, part of that being a Sunday lunch tradition of opening up the space to families and kids of all ages, it was just prior to 11:45am that the first guests arrived at the lengthy white building in Holte, the early moments everything that fine dining should be with "Yes Sir and Yes Ma'am" aplenty and Champagne flowing, though what followed would probably be best described as a few steps above dining at one of the McDonald's locations with an indoor playground. For many a special event sort of Restaurant, the menu divided into a bargain Lunch and two Tasting menus, the Søllerød Signatur and Søllerød Inspiration at DKK1795 and 875, respectively, it seemed only appropriate as a first time visitor to place trust in the items on which the restaurant established itself, a Wine list said to be one of the best in all of Europe passed on in favor of one of Alain Milliat's new Nectars, the flavor expressive and brisk in a way that pairs well with everything, though obviously less complex than serious oenophiles would appreciate. Listed as an eight course menu, but in reality double that when accounting for several canapés, amuses, palate cleansers and mignardises along the way, it was just before the restaurant started to fill that things got started, a plastic 'egg' filled with Potatoes, Summer Truffles and Bread Crumbs rich and creamy while the Asparagus in smoked Cream was a lot like that at AOC the night before, the small morsel of cured Duck around Prune a tasty balance of sweet and salty while the Apple compressed in Verbena was a refreshing single bite to refresh the palate for flavors to arrive. Offering what would turn out to be one of Denmark's best Bread services at a pace best defined as brisk, it was with anything but a French classic that an amuse arrived featuring Watercress Ice Cream and immature Strawberries in a cold soup flavored with Parsley, the "Oscietra Unika En Surprise" that followed described as a 'signature' but in reality quite similar to something anyone who has dined at Joel Robuchon has experienced with a thin layer of Caviar stacked on Asparagus Gel and diced Razor Clams alongside a Horseradish Crisp. Following up Caviar with more Caviar, the grilled Oyster topped in salty black Eggs specially produced for the Restaurant seemingly an odd decision to reuse a flavor profile so early on, course three was unfortunately a case of unnecessary 'modernism' creeping into the dining room, the frozen Horseradish liberally added to a disc of Scallops topped in both Ginger and Grapefuit presenting a flavor so cutting that Hansen may as well have been serving Ground Chuck beneath it because no one would have noticed the difference. Returning all but one bite of the dish to the kitchen, not one question or mention of it from the staff aside from "all finished?," it was finally here that flavors got more interesting, the Lobster Tail served beneath softened Cabbage and Curry Foam infused with Thai Basil fairly spicy by Danish standards and yet another case of Chef Robuchon's influence while the Foie Gras was a pleasant yet standard preparation putting the creamy disc beneath Kumquat Jam and Dark Chocolate Crisps. Clearly a restaurant dependent on using luxury ingredients to wow guests, a bronzed ounce of Turbot seared with Bear's Garlic served next to a gelatin layer of Black Garlic atop Broad Beans coming next, savories finished with a slightly overcooked Loin of wild-shot Deer marinated in Black Pepper Reduction, the flavorless Truffles served as a shredded cloud atop Cabbage more interesting as a texture than a taste beneath Hollandaise. Cleansing the palate with a warm cup of Lemon-Ginger Tea and a Macaron of complimentary flavor, a harmless little duo that arrived around 14h30 as several Danish children had long since been chasing up and down the aisles unrestrained by parents, Dessert one again took a post-noma turn by presenting halved-Cherries atop an Almond Caked next to a quenelle of fresh Woodruff Ice Cream, 2/3 of the Mignardises again featuring ingredients served no more than two courses prior while the Mango Popsicle intended to be dipped in White Chocolate was a fairly clumsy presentation that really did not seem to fit the meal's concept.

The Inn was built in 1677 which makes it 335 years old. Kong Hans is in a building 700+ years old which would make Søllerød Kro half it's age. That's still nothing to sneeze at though, it's had way more history than anything that I live near. If you you take a train out of Copenhagen to Holte, the walk into Søllerød Kro is about 20 min with you hiking through the Geelskov forest. Perhaps one of the nicest treks to a restaurant I've ever made. We passed the cemetery and also saw the adjacent museum and church. After seeing the signs we walked around the garden and I mistakenly tried to use the door into the salon. Oops. So we walked around the building until we found the courtyard, that has a decent amount of seating for those nice days. However the weather was shifting between sun and clouds and we thought it might rain. So they took us into the depths inside. You walk trough the tiny doorway, passing a set of stairs and as you move forward, it opens up into the main dining room. In the back is an entrance to the courtyard and the two sliding glass doors that go into the kitchen. We were seated by our captain and sommelier Henrik, who we chatted with briefly. We had brought regards from Patrick, a former server here, from formel B., which we had dined with the night before. The message was for Jan Restorff, the long time manager of Søllerød Kro. From what I had read and from Patrick's description, Jan is a man that knows everyone in Copenhagen fine dining and is one of the best hosts of all of them. As Jan came out, we repeated out regards and we started chatting about where we had eaten and where we were still going. I had wished I had met Jan much earlier. He did indeed know everyone. He knew the folks at Kokkeriet and Den Rode Cottage which we were going to and he also knew Rene Redzepi as a young lad. Jan was the most connected mafia man in Denmark as far as I could tell! We look at Søllerød's extensive menu and there are many choices. We were a bit on a time constraint because we were trying to get up to Frederiksborg castle before it closed. The choices were Green Menu - 3 salted courses based on asparagus, herbs, egg yolk and morels Søllerød Menu - 3 to 6 course from a list of entrees, Menu Prestige - and 8 course flagship menu Lunch A la Carte menu - Single selections of some of the previous menus so many choices! So we did a hybrid of the a la carte and Søllerød menus: -Terrine of lobster with peas and wood sorrel -Monkfish with fried white asparagus and Parmesan -Artichokes with braised lamb and parsley -Quail with sweetbreads, new onions, and green asparagus -Roasted langoustine with new onions and wood sorrel -Roasted turbot with white asparagus, egg yolk, and chicken jus -Rhubarbs, white chocolate, and yoghurt -Cheese with summer truffle and macadamia nut -Apple, wood sorrel, and vanilla You'd think that after many epic meals, with the last 2 culminating with Noma and Relae, that it could not be any better. Well it certainly comes close. Not to say that Søllerød is better, but it certainly holds it's own against any dining establishment in the area. The use of Danish ingredients with the hybrid of French flavors and technique were outstanding. Every dish made me smile. After hitting up many of the New Nordic Cuisine temples, it was very comforting to be brought back to excellence in flavors I was more familiar with. Jan and Henrik were superb in their hospitality, talking about food, wine, the movement of Danish cuisine and the likes of what traditional lunch and dinner is in the eyes of current society. We also made some friends with two Swedish diners nearby and realized that they too, traveled far and wide to experience the best food and culture they could from many countries. It was a wildly fulfilling meal and I had wished that we could have stayed longer. But there are only so many hours in a day and so many things to see. Knowing that we had to catch a train north to Hillerød, Jan actually drove us back down the hill to Holte station, saving us 15 minutes of walking. You want to talk about personalized service? Now how's that for hospitality? Jan is definitely the man. If you choose a handful of places to eat in Copenhagen, I highly suggest you leave town for Søllerød Kro. The warmth of the staff, the level of food and the sheer beauty of the area is totally worth it. Jan has been in the industry over 30 years and it very much shows. He might just be one of the best hosts not only in Denmark, but anywhere in the world I've been to.

A royal feast for the eyes and taste buds. From the moment you step in, you know that you are in good hands now. Absolutely beautiful location (I call it the Italy of Copenhagen) with little green hills, stone houses, beautiful gardens. That followed by, solid silver cutlery, gold rimmed chairs and an incredible food and wine menu that deserves every bit of their Michelin star. I have been here once for our wedding anniversary and once for a 40th year celebration of a colleague. Both times have been incredible experiences. It is not Noma in the sense of being innovative but this is a classical French cuisine with a Nordic twist. Looking forward to coming back!

This is a lovely restaurant but its price kind of means its most suitable for a romantic evening or possibly entertaining a business client. The food and drink were top quality and the service was excellent. Posh dining as it should be.

This is without a doubt the best meal I've ever had!!! The staff are incredibly helpful and knowledgable. I had the deer for a main which was cooked to perfection and literally melted in the mouth.