Cosimo G.
Google
I’ve been to several Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy and France, and I’ve also dined at the legendary Bagatelle in Oslo—where I even had the pleasure of being greeted by Eyvind Hellstrøm in person twice. So when we booked Statholdergaarden to celebrate my birthday, expectations were naturally high.
The evening started pleasantly. We were welcomed politely and led through a short corridor into a small room displaying Michelin one-star plaques from previous years. The entrance sits between the kitchen and the dining room, but it felt surprisingly small and not quite what you’d expect for the welcome into a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Unfortunately, the next step set the tone in the wrong direction. Instead of being taken to the main dining room, we were seated in a tight adjacent room that felt like an afterthought. With only four simple tables and a plain portrait on the wall, it lacked atmosphere and elegance—and it honestly felt like being placed in the “back seats” while other guests were seated in front, in the real dining area.
When I asked why we were placed there, the explanation didn’t inspire confidence. First, we were told it was due to the booking time, but we had reserved well in advance. When I pointed that out, the response shifted to a vague logistical excuse that didn’t really make sense. After such a start, it was difficult to fully relax and enjoy what should have been a special birthday celebration.
We ordered the six-course menu, and for the most part the kitchen delivered: the dishes were well prepared, beautifully presented, extremely tasty, and overall above expectations. However, the main course was a letdown. The duck was surprisingly bland and drowned in an overly heavy sauce, which threw the balance completely off. It’s not the kind of execution you expect at this level.
We also wanted a memorable wine experience and asked to see the wine cart. I noticed a Brunello di Montalcino “Piccolomino” 2017 priced at NOK 2,800, which we ordered. But by pure coincidence, the day before I had bought the exact same bottle (same vintage) at Beck Restaurant in Drammen for NOK 1,200. I understand markups in fine dining, but this felt excessive and hard to justify.
Finally, the pacing of the evening was simply too slow. We arrived at 18:30 and paid the bill at 23:00—that’s four and a half hours for a six-course menu, which is unacceptably long. I have to say the time passes nicely in good company, but a shorter, better-paced service would definitely have made the overall experience much more pleasant.
In summary: Statholdergaarden offers moments of real culinary quality, but the seating decision, the unconvincing explanation, the disappointing main course, the extreme wine pricing, and the very slow pacing undermined what should have been a memorable birthday evening.