Sharon Barnea
Google
We went to Stovell's for a set lunch, to celebrate my wife's birthday. I was impressed by the excellent reviews and cancelled another booking at a Michelin-starred restaurant for this one, thinking that this would be a special 'foodie' experience, as stated in some reviews. Unfortunately I was mistaken. Stovell's currently holds 4 AA Rosettes but no Michelin star. Four Rosettes is a very high rating and should place it "Among the top restaurants in the UK where the cooking demands national recognition.", on par with "The Ledbury" and "The Greenhouse". I cannot understand this rating. Apart from the price, Stovell's cannot be compared to the above Michelin-starred restaurants in London. I would rate Stovell's at 2 Rosettes maximum. In fact, we enjoyed many much better restaurants with 3 Rosettes. Our recent lunch at "Matt Worswick At The Latymer", which also holds 4 Rosettes, was a truly unforgettable experience, but Stovell's was quite poor in comparison.
Nobody welcomed us at the door, but I still had hopes. It was an almost empty restaurant, but we were given a nice corner table in the low-ceiling dining room. There was no sommelier, but my wife opted for a glass of Spanish wine, which was fine but very small indeed. After making our menu selection, we were offered a very simple "canapé", with a single choice of bread. The celeriac "shot" was good but rather simple. The bread was good too, but toasted unevenly. We were given a choice of pork dripping with apple, which was interesting, and smoked salted butter that tasted more like margarine. For starter, I chose "Hay Grilled Cornish Mackerel, Celeriac & Orchard Coleslaw". The mackerel was rather small and tasted almost bitter (from the photo, you can see it is almost burnt). I can't remember tasting any celeriac. There was also more coleslaw than mackerel and it was overpowering. It didn't even suit with the fish and there was way too much of it. Although presented nicely, the dish did not make sense. My wife's "Warm Pressed Terrine of Wood Pigeon, Smoked Foie, Compote of Braeburn" was better, but barely had any foie in it, and it was on the whole uninteresting. For main, we both had "Juniper Smoked Rainbow Trout, Legumes & Brown Butter Mayonnaise". The fish was unevenly cooked, mostly overcooked, presented on top of a (king!) bed of lentils. The mayonnaise was very strong, and didn't suit with the more delicate trout. The lentils were uninteresting and there were far too many. The manager advised a side dish to go with the mains. I was surprised with the advice at first, as I would expect the dishes to make sense on their own, but we were tempted to try the fat duck chips. These proved to be completely unnecessary and less good than the fries you get at burger restaurants. For dessert, we chose the "Valrhona Dark Chocolate Fondant, Smoked Milk Ice Cream". The fondant was good but similar to "Gü" puddings from the supermarket. The ice cream was very light, almost like a sorbet. At the end, we didn't take the coffee and petits fours, we just wanted to leave.
Overall this was not good value, and I cannot recommend. From now on, I will only trust Michelin inspectors!
UPDATE: I wrote this review about 4 months ago, but Mr. Stovell immediately called me and begged me to remove my review. He blamed our bad experience on his lack of attention due to a recent divorce and promised me a lunch on the house. I gave him a second chance and removed the review, but despite my best efforts in booking another lunch, another visit seemed impossible, and I cannot trust Mr. Stovell anymore.