Jane D.
Yelp
TLDR: Sushi Masu is legit. Surprisingly so.
At this elegant new sushi restaurant, which quietly opened on Columbus and 74th St. earlier this year, the food is refined, not flashy or ostentatious. Sushi, sashimi and composed dishes do not rely on slabs of foie gras, wagyu beef, gold foil or other gimmicks to stand out -- just plain old fashioned (and extremely labor intensive) technique.
We sat before Chef Jackie on our visit. The shari that he and his team served us was the best we've had in a while, made with a subtle, mild Akazu vinegar (fancy stuff made from fermented sake lees) and a high quality short grain rice. The rice is made in small batches, continuously replenished, expertly seasoned, and made to + maintained at a textbook perfect texture. There's some range in temperature that chefs use for shari (depending, for instance, on the temperature of the fish, how strongly flavored the fish is, the season, and other factors). At our meal, the shari was served just a smidgen warmer than body temperature pretty much across the board, in balance with the neta, which was mostly a smidgen cooler than body temperature.
Some of our favorite itamae like to serve their rice a little looser and warmer than standard so that it dissolves on your tongue upon impact and allows you to taste the neta and shari together. Chef Jackie compresses his shari to what is probably a standard firmness. My personal preference is to eat nigiri sidewise in these circumstances so the neta and shari touch your tongue at the same time.
Chef Jackie's knife work is precise and impressive. Neta was well cut, often with photogenic slivers of silver skin, and enjoyably varied.
The blow-by-blow of our 13 courses for my fellow sushi nerds:
- King salmon w/ garlic chives, crisp potato, and mustard glaze
- Haddock karaage -- lightly breaded and grease-free per the kiddos + Pardner
- A composed dish of shima aji with caramelized onions, ponzu -- clever pairing of traditional and non-traditional elements that managed to work. You could still taste the buttery sweetness of the fish despite strong flavors.
- Madai -- classically well made, delicate in texture and flavor
- Kamasu (barracuda), lightly seared -- I seldom see this as nigiri in the US, but the meaty, smoky kamasu, lightly brushed with seasoned soy sauce, was a crowd pleaser.
- Aji (horse mackerel) -- I like that the straightforward, classic preparation celebrated and did not try to obscure the strong flavors of this fish. Even the 12 and 9 year olds enjoyed.
- Hotate from Hokkaido -- this is usually one of my favorite neta, especially in cooler months. Maybe it was a fluke (harhar), but my piece wasn't quite as sweet and flavorful as one might expect given this season.
- Akami -- Sometimes it's really nice to see a plain ol' piece of well prepared akami, which is often back burnered in favor or more exotic fish. I appreciated that this was not akami zuké, which I like, but is as obnoxiously ubiquitous as Taylor Swift right now; this akami was lightly seasoned with a quick brush of soy sauce before serving.
- Chutoro -- competently aged, flavorful
- Unagi (freshwater eel) -- delicate texture, admirably restrained wrt saucing (though I personally like mine with just a sprinkle of salt, no sauce)
- Otoro -- melt-in-your-mouth silky
- Chutoro hand roll -- nori was freshly toasted and nicely filled with creamy chutoro with bits of fried potato, rice puffs, and other lovely, crispy things mixed in. Great combination of textures.
- A complimentary piece of futomaki with unagi
- Panna cotta with toasted coconut, yuzu syrup, macadamia nuts -- indulgent, but pleasantly light
***********
Sushi Masu seems to be a total sleeper -- a low key, understated sushiya that serves improbably good food. I don't know where Chef Jackie received his training (it felt rude to inquire), but it's clear that the food he and his colleagues make is thoughtful, rooted in a solid understanding of Edomae traditions, beautiful, and delicious.
The sleek, silver koi wallpapered dining room is elegant enough for an anniversary date (looking at you, Pardner), but welcoming / friendly enough to walk in and dine alone if you wish.
At $68 and for this level of quality, the 13 course omakase meal is an absolute steal. (It's about 100,000x better than comparably priced set menus at Sugarfish and other establishments of that ilk.)
Sushi Masu is worth a return visit.