Gary G.
Yelp
If you're looking for Sichuan or authentic Chinese, look elsewhere, but for an old school place with a very old school vibe inside (especially the lounge), this is one of the last holdouts and one of the best. I suspect those who've given a low rating either a) are opining more on the style than the execution or b) haven't been here all that recently (it's had its ups and downs). Yeah, I like the authentic stuff too (and reviewed a few favorites in that category as well as old school), but this review is on how they do the Chinese American style of yore.
Key items here are the appetizers. Combo plates available at both lunch and dinner. Not a lot of servers, but the service is cordial. Parking is easy.
Spareribs on the bone: Delicious red glaze, an adequate amount of it, and some char on top too. Juices often trickling down the cross sections hint at the delight that's delivered in a great first bite. These are very fresh, very juicy, and very repeatable--even on combo plates. As someone who usually dabs a little duck sauce on ribs, I can also say that I sometimes don't use any on theirs. They usually don't need it. While I don't know if I can say they're unquestionably the best bone-in Chinese spareribs in the region, I firmly believe they're the best under $20 for an appetizer order.
Tidbits #1: Chicken fingers, egg roll, boneless ribs. The only item of late that was somewhat disappointing. Egg roll solid, with very fresh filling of crumbled red pork, celery, cabbage. Crunchy outside but with inner wrap texture similar to a cookie. Chicken fingers generous and crispy, but could have used a little more chicken to the batter. The boneless spareribs were flat out dry and boring.
Lobster Sauce: Dark, screaming with flavor, dark, bigger-than-usual pork crumbles, dark, smooth texture, and none of the oversaltiness or jellylike texture that brings other lobster sauces down. And did I say dark? One for the ages.
Shrimp & Lobster Sauce: Tried on a later visit via combo. Very dark, very soft, very delicious, with Tic-Tac-sized pork crumbles very soft. Tried many times as just sauce but only once with the shrimp. Some are disappointed by the baby shrimp, but I liked 'em: VERY generous quantity and smaller size made it easy to get at least one (usually two) in every bite, and much more tender than the usual four or so larger ones you get per order elsewhere.
Pork Egg Foo Yong: One of the best renditions I've ever had, even though it's on the thin side. Everything crisp where it needed to be, soft where it needed to be, fresh as can be, and great flavor all around, from the egg to the vegetables to the sauce.
Egg Foo Yong Combo: Featuring pork fried rice, pork egg foo yong, and pork chow mein, which was so voluminous they used a separate plate. I also sprung for a single egg roll a la carte. Great texture and flavor in the PFR. EFY still among the best. Tried this twice and both times excellent.
Subgum Pork Fried Rice: Dark, fresh, stuffed with ample pork, bean sprouts, and nice addition of peppers. Didn't notice any egg. Very moist and flavorful. One of the better fried rices for sure.
Pork Fried Rice: Standard stuff, with minimal additions, but the pork nuggetry is plentiful and the onions are just noticeable enough. Usually good, sometimes great.
Wontons. Crispy. Pretty much it; no issues.
Egg Roll: You can get a single one a la carte; a great addition to a combo that doesn't have one. Lots of crunch to the egg roll inside and out, with a Pecan Sandy texture in the shell. Not elite, but very good.
Chicken Wings: I haven't had these here in over a year, so a retry was necessary via a combo plate. Subtle but effective, with the five spice seasoning hinted at, although it could have used more. Crisp enough. Could've been juicier, but no complaints.
Sweet and Sour Chicken: Even on a small order, a voluminous plate of many small crunchy pieces, rather than a half dozen or so large ones. All a lemon yellow color. Interesting. Odd. Not bad. But odd.