Christine B.
Yelp
After three separate visits for the day-use onsen, I thought that Takaragawa Onsen didn't hold any more surprises for me. But the ryokan was determined to prove me wrong.
At the request of a friend we stayed overnight, and it was such an amazing time that I'm wondering when I can come back again.
We stayed in the 第一別館, which is the building furthest away from the main building. A wooden structure built in 1936, the annex has no in-room bath or toilet. Instead, there is a shared bathroom (toilet) on each floor, and an indoor bath in the main building, as well as several rotenburo (outdoor baths) just across the river. You need to walk through a long connecting corridor to get back to the main building, which also houses the restaurant for dinner and breakfast. For that reason, the annex has the cheapest of the room options available at Takaragawa Onsenkaku.
However, I'm convinced that our room, called 梅 (Japanese plum), was the very best in the entire ryokan. It has a fantastic view of the rushing river below and a really lovely round paper window, which you can see lit up at night when crossing the bridge to the rotenburo. I think that every time I come to Takaragawa Onsen again in the future on a day visit, I'll look across the river and think "There's my room!" Sure there's wear and tear but, honestly, that's part of the charm of staying in a wooden building that's nearly a century old.
The best part of staying at the ryokan is being able to visit the rotenburo at all times of night. Especially in the middle of the night when no one is around, it's like having your own giant private onsen. And waking up to the sound of the rushing river in the morning comes in at a close second.
Buffet-style dinner and breakfast are included in the stay. Unfortunately, only a specific accommodation plan for guests staying in the main building comes with the traditional ryokan kaiseki meal, but dinner was still very tasty and had great variety.
I was also blown away by the friendliness of the staff. Japanese ryokan are notable for their hospitality, but there was one obachan in the restaurant who was particularly playful and really made our stay.
I was feeling like I had seen it all after my third visit to Takaragawa Onsen, but after staying at the ryokan I can't wait to come again!
As for the guy asking why there aren't any window screens -- they're not a part of traditional Japanese architecture. Why would you retrofit a beautiful old ryokan with hideous window screens?