Warren H.
Yelp
The last time I visited Barcelona was in September of 2008, before the financial crisis that gripped the country for a good part of the last decade happened. Back then, El Bulli was at its peak with impossible reservations, reinterpreted classics and molecular gastronomy that did not try to recreate your childhood, but drew experiences from that innocent time. Chef Adria was also churning out disciples daily who carried forward his spirit by opening their own innovative eateries around the world. "Vicki Cristina Barcelona" had just premiered, and it was rumored that Woody Allen himself would jam with the band at a swanky 5-star hotel in upper Gracia between shoots. In short, it was a town hopping with wealth, creativity and global interest. That was the right ecosystem to sustain Carles Abellan's Comerc24. I remember this being the first time I experienced (and paid for) a "deconstructed" prosciutto e melone appetizer consisting simply of a honeydew chupito with crunchy ham chips. I remember having the sensation of being so fascinated by the creative presentation, that I didn't mind that it was neither a. satisfying nor b. an improvement on the real thing. All I could think of was, "what else can these guys do?" and, "how come I never came up with anything like that?"
Fast forward to this January, and all I wanted was seeing how Barcelona had reinvented itself after the financial downturn. I found this in Tapas24 -- Carles Abellan's more casual restaurant since the now defunct Comerc24.
The set up is underwhelming and feels like you will be in for a run-of-the-mill experience found in any of the dozens of tapas bars lining Eixample. If it hadn't been suggested by a foodie friend who's a local, I would have walked right past not even knowing this was Chef Abellan's newer incarnation. Once you pull up a stool at the counter, you're in for a treat.
I'm glad I went with a group of friends who were more than happy to try the top hits on the menu as recommended by our server. It was like a Catalonian omakase. We had a calamari sandwich inspired by the popular fare you find near the beach that was out of this world -- it had kicked-up umami from a kimchi salt they developed at the restaurant. Their burger with foie gras looked more like a slider by American standards, but it was packed with flavor, juicy and the right amount of doneness. I loved the pairing of romesco with griddled, in-season artichokes. It's difficult to make patatas bravas sexy, especially within Spain, but the tricked-up sauce that topped them was plain delicious. Their pa amb tomaquet flatbread was positively addictive and showcased the best of the region: fresh tomatoes, herbs, tangy olive oil and gorgeous, lip-smacking sea salt.
Their drinks were prepared with a lot of care and with copious pours of gin & tonics, cavas and sangrías, I'm happy to report anything that happened after this restaurant visit is a gleeful blur.
I think our server was a young woman named Dani, and her enthusiasm, knowledge and professionalism made all the difference. She had been working at the restaurant for more than five years, and I wouldn't be surprised if she were running the joint soon.
Even if it's dismissed as a tourist spot or there's a long wait time, do yourself a favor if you're in Barcelona, and make it a point to try this place. You won't regret experiencing how a city can show its resilience, relevance and virtuosity through its food.