Rebecca P.
Yelp
As one of the first businesses to open its doors to the public in the newly inaugurated Here East complex (formerly the London Olympics Media Centre), The Breakfast Club's Hackney Wick venture was under pressure to impress. Already an established fixture on the London brunch scene- with locations in Angel, Battersea Rise, Canary Wharf, Hoxton, London Bridge, Soho and Spitalfields- each branch of the Breakfast Club guarantees two things: a queue outside the door and top-notch iterations of the great American breakfast. Think hefty portions of fluffy pancake stacks, meaty staples and crispy fried home-style potatoes, washed down with pitchers of orange juice or smoothies. The post-breakfast fare also pays homage to American classics of trays bursting with nachos, sticky chicken wings, large bowls of hash and gooey mac n' cheese. But this isn't your average American greasy spoon- the food is only part of the experience, as the motif of the franchise stems from nostalgia and eccentricity. Each venue has its own flair, though, so no Breakfast Club is identical. One boasts My Little Pony wallpaper in the ladies loo, one a garish pink ceiling while some host clandestine speakeasies.
We ate at the newest addition to the Club during their soft launch on a Sunday afternoon. We had just completed a half marathon and were ravenous. Ambling up to the restaurant on a blazingly hot afternoon, it was already abuzz with diners, drinkers and drawing the attention of those walking on the nearby canal towpath. With seating outside- both tables for diners and sun chairs, all populated with those sipping Aperol or Pimm's- this is going to be a teeming summer hotspot. The windowed façade allows for the front of the restaurant to be thrown open to the elements, which conveyed an airy, coastal feel on such a warm day.
The restaurant isn't immense, so once word catches on, it will undoubtedly require booking in advance. The atmosphere is laidback, lively and always electric- whistles were being blown at random intervals by excited diners and there was a DJ set up at the bar, providing a live soundtrack for the afternoon. Despite the din, it isn't unbearably loud- instead, it makes it easy to kick back and watch the antics of the restaurant unfold. The servers are hip but friendly- ours was incredibly flustered, but he was still learning the ropes. In all of the BC locations I have visited in the past, I have often struggled to flag waiters down, however- they tend to be bouncing between too many tables, but they always retain a friendly demeanour.
On this occasion, I ordered the 'When Haloumi met Salad' wrap- yes, the quirkiness extends to the menu- which is a wrap stuffed with grilled haloumi, sunblush tomatoes, houmous, spinach and a balsamic reduction. A personal favourite, this is a substantial offering, amply jammed with cheese and dripping balsamic juice that escapes between your fingers. It's hearty and one of the healthier options on the menu, but it packs a satisfying punch. Crunchy spinach mingles with creamy houmous and the hunks of salty haloumi make this a wrap worthy of praise. It's filling on its own, but it can be paired with additional sides of slaw or chips if you have the appetite.
My boyfriend's hash was a behemoth of a dish- arriving in a heaped bowl of fried potatoes, ham hock and mingled spinach- all crowned with a perfectly poached egg. A mustard grain hollandaise sauce arrived on the side, adding richness to the stodgy dish- tangy, salty and moreish, this was perfect post marathon fare. My boyfriend was enthralled with his choice, but was barely able to finish the generous portion. This might have been exasperated by the fact that he also ordered a poutine on the side, which was a small but hearty serving of french fries topped with beef chili and gooey cheese.
The food was prompt and it's irrefutable that the BC have stepped up with their standard menu- previously, they were only a destination for brunch, but my wrap was fresh, filling and neatly assembled. Even the hash was an attractive and appetising plate. The value of both dishes is also fantastic, each coming in at under £10. The location of the Hackney Wick branch is perhaps my favourite to date- perfect for people watching and for lounging on a balmy summer's afternoon.
This is a welcome addition to the area and we'll definitely revisit. Given we visited during a soft launch, the lagging and disoriented service can be overlooked- once the staff gather their bearings, this place will be another hotspot for brunch in the Wick.
Saving Ferris can wait until after pancakes, right?
