Galen E.
Yelp
Dinner at The Buffalo Jump is more a journey than a meal; an epic quest akin to Homer's Odyssey. Of course, if I structure this review around The Odyssey, I would be remiss to neglect the literary connection to Joyce's Ulysses. And by invoking Ulysses, we must dip our toes into Shakespeare's Hamlet as well. Luckily, and for brevity's sake, there is a body of work that unites all of these classics. At this point I need not remind the reader that I am speaking, of course, of the discography of the seminal Florida-based death metal band Death. Their catalogue, both deep and wide, contains multitudes, and can perfectly describe our meal in order of appearance on our table:
Gazpacho: Symbolic, from Symbolic (1995)
As the title track and first song on the album, it's gotta be good, and neither the gazpacho nor the song disappoints. Plus, it's called "Symbolic", so it's symbolic that I picked it for the first dish as well. Or maybe it's a metaphor...or ironic? Or maybe a coincidence...the point is I liked the gazpacho - the tomatoes were fresh (and peeled? Interesting choice); the scallops were soft with a hint of the sea, and the whole dish had a nice smoky flavor. Great start.
Watermelon Tart: The First Cut is the Deepest, written by Cat Stevens, performed by Rod Stewart on A Night on the Town (1976).
Ok so I know it's early to diverge from the theme, but I didn't really like this dish, and because Death never wrote a bad song, I had to look elsewhere for a musical representation, and since I hate Rod Stewart the most, here we are talking about his especially terrible "The First Cut is the Deepest". While it's admirable to put crickets in things, in this case they were a little overpowering: there was only one bite where I could taste the sheep's cheese, which could have been featured more prominently. This might work better as an amuse bouche; one bite is probably enough to get the idea here, which is maybe even more than Rod Stewart deserves.
Nightshades: Bite the Pain, from Sound of Perseverance (1998)
"LOOK DOWN, AT THE, EGGPLAAAAAANNNT!!!!". Bite the Pain is my favorite Death song, and Biting the Eggplant and Jimmy Nardello Peppers and Husk Cherry Salsa is my favorite thing to do at The Buffalo Jump. Never in all my days have I tasted eggplant that tender and juicy. And the peppers! My God, those sweet and crunchy peppers! It was simple, beautiful, and delicious.
Movin to the Country and We're Going to Eat a lot of Peaches: Flesh and the Power it Holds, from Sound of Perseverance (1998)
Veal sweetbreads and foie gras pate with a peach and guanciale sauce. Chuck said it best in his objectively perfect song: "Touch, taste, breathe, consumed...behold the flesh and the power it holds."
Lobster Stew: Cosmic Sea, from Human (1991)
Cosmic Sea is a divisive song: half of Death's fans think it's deep and brilliant and shows off their prog chops, while the other half just wants them to cut that crap out and go back to "Scream Bloody Gore". So too with the lobster stew; I found a lot of warm and salty comfort in it, while my meal (and life) partner thought it was a little boring. Oh well, can't please everyone!
Wood Grilled Bison: Spirit Crusher, from Sound of Perseverance (1998)
Whatever disagreements we had about the stew were quickly forgotten when the wood grilled bison arrived. Even the most hardcore fans of early Death had to admit that Sound of Perseverance, and its pinnacle, Spirit Crusher, were metal as balls. This one actually can please everyone: rich bison grilled to perfection, bright tart beach plums, and sunchokes that were worth the farts that followed.
Pig's Blood Pie: Regurgitated Guts, from Scream Bloody Gore (1987).
I had never eaten pig's blood pie before, so I didn't know what to expect. But much like Regurgitated Guts from Death's first album, this one sounds a little cooler than it actually is. The PBP was spiced like a pumpkin pie; really only a hint of blood. Nice with the sliced apples though!
Sweet Potato Casserole: Pull the Plug, from Leprosy (1988)
Sweet potato casserole: part tuber, part marshmallow, all nostalgia. Pull the Plug is a great song, everyone likes it, but there's no denying that it's less polished than Death's later work. This dessert suffered from the same fate: all the parts were there, but they didn't come together well. The earl grey ice cream was a stand out, but there was too much sweet potato, and it was pretty burnt.
When the Buffalo Jump is good, it's amazeballs, and even when it misses the mark, it's at least interesting. A couple small gripes: the dishes could be spread out a bit more, we finished our 8 courses in 1.5 hours which felt fast. We were also insanely stuffed by the end. We wouldn't have minded if some of the dishes (tart, stew) were smaller, and the desserts were lighter. Regardless, Buffalo Jump is really special and we will definitely be back.
PS the farm has alpacas they are awesome.