Mark M.
Google
⭐ Review: The Crown, Bray – Simon Bonwick at His Glorious Best
I was genuinely excited to have the opportunity to dine at The Crown in Bray for a lunchtime booking. The Crown is no stranger to great chefs – it was once home to Heston, who is still only a few doors down – and the village itself remains one of the most extraordinary dining destinations in the world.
Now, Simon Bonwick is back doing what he does best: running a proper British boozer with food that is unmistakably him. Maison Bonwick at The Crown is everything you want it to be. There’s a classic bar lined with real pickled eggs and onions, a warm welcome from the locals, and the sort of comforting charm that reminds you why the British pub endures.
And then there’s the food – flavour-packed, honest, and cooked with complete confidence. Nothing on the plate is unnecessary; there are no gimmicks, just deeply satisfying cooking and sauces so good you’ll want to mop them up with some of the best bread I’ve had all year.
Simon encouraged us to try his pigeon dish, served with two perfectly cooked breasts, beautifully diced vegetables, and one of those trademark sauces that quietly stop you in your tracks.
For my starter, I chose the French Country Style Pâté, which was absolutely stunning. Generously served with chutney, cornichons and pickled silverskins, it was the perfect beginning to the meal.
Next came the Goosnargh Duck with a Rather Nice Sauce of Rowanberry. The duck was cooked pink and tender, served with Simon’s mashed potatoes, carrots, and yet another glorious sauce that demanded to be mopped up – or scooped with your fingers when no one was looking.
Dessert was pure nostalgia: the Warm Syrup Sponge with Vanilla Ice Cream – a proper steamed pudding and absolute heaven.
My dining partner started with the Pickled Majtec Herrings, Potato ’n’ Dill, then moved on to a full main course of pigeon, followed by the Pie ’n’ Mash, which on the day happened to be rabbit. I managed to steal a little of the pie and it was superb. They finished with the Chocolate Sablé, Mousse & Orange, which disappeared very quickly.
It is genuinely exciting to have Simon back behind the stove. The Crown is once again a must-visit – a pub with soul, heart, and cooking that stays with you long after you’ve left.
An absolute gem in the heart of Bray.