Frank W.
Yelp
We were told the Elderberry House was the best restaurant in the region, exceeding even the Ahwahnee in Yosemite, and I would accept that boast. The night before, we had dinner with a couple that had celebrated their honeymoon here thirty years ago. They still remembered it fondly. The husband in particular raved about the elderberry sauce accompanying his pork entree. That is impressive decades later, rivaling Proust for how a memory of food would bring about such a strong reaction. My internet research turned up a report that they were one of the few establishments still enforcing a dress code for the dining room. With the pandemic, they relaxed that requirement. Nonetheless, we brought a nice change of clothes despite the more rustic excursion we were on.
The menu was personalized (with the name of the party). That is possible with high quality but affordable laserjet printers. It remains a nice touch. The servers also knew who we were. There were two choices, a three course or a six course (smaller portions). We selected the former, and I opted for the wine pairing. They inquired politely about allergies. They substituted a carrot panna cotta for the sea urchin panna cotta, because my wife reacts to lobster and the latter had a bit in the emulsion.
I eat someplace such this, and I think to myself I need to improve my skills describing the experience. I lack the vocabulary to explain what is wonderful. Most of us cannot do it, record the sensations that were so compelling in the moment. I am determined to learn. The wine steward taught me the word autolytic. It refers to the bread-y mouthfeel of yeast and the flavors formed through fermentation. That was a good addition for a specific purpose. It is a compliment to say that is not enough though to communicate adequately why the tastes of this evening were worthwhile.
We had the sea urchin, caviar, and spring peas amuse bouche, which was presented elaborately on a faux wilderness plate, I guess resembling driftwood. It was larger than similar openers, with two pieces (a tartlet and a panna cotta), compared to dollops of a treat. That was followed by ahi tuna and then a choice of steelhead trout or smoked duck. The dessert was a deconstructed strawberry shortcake with goat's milk yogurt.
I lack the words to report in detail. I am accustomed to sea urchin in Japanese cuisine. I have had it once as a "sauce" with pasta at an Italian seafood restaurant. This version was different than both. The tarlet had tiny peas; the panna cotta, the herb chervil. The tuna also was savory with a color palette (that isn't the right term, but it will do) unlike in Asian cuisine or as grilled; the menu discloses the addition of radish (I believe pickled) and sorrel. The duck breast was the best I have had that is not Peking duck. The smokiness was apparent but subtle. The meat was leaner than I am familiar with. That is just as well since too much fattiness is delicious but upsets my stomach as I get older. My wife and our friend offer testimonials for the dessert. I liked it. The goat's milk gave it an earthy, tart, grassy hint.
Here is a food word: unctuous. I thought the server verged on unctuous. That is much less complimentary than it ought to be. He was utterly sincere. A more accurate, as well as flattering, reference would be solicitous. He was funny and kind to a fault, at odds with the cynicism and divisiveness of our era. The setting was calming. The dining room was inviting and warm. All of the tables were enjoying themselves, which has not always been the case -- I've been seated next to couples obviously irate with one another and parents scolding children about how spoiled they are (ironic at a high end restaurant, which is as lost on the elders as their progeny). The leisurely pace of the meal is an indication of what this is all about, celebrating and relaxing.
The Elderberry House was perfect for its purpose. Our weekend trip was a special getaway, much needed. The Elderberry House was easily the culinary zenith. Anyone hiking Yosemite who wants to put on classy outfit for an evening out should consider this their destination.
