Jeremy C.
Yelp
The good: Absolutely beautiful gym, very tall walls, very good routesetting, good vibe and generally friendly staff.
The bad: The bad side of my experience is most applicable to infrequent visitors, especially lead climbers like us. My wife and I normally come to the gym 2-3 times a year during our annual ski trip. For the first time, we found a way to bring our rope (SLC area gyms don't loan or provide ropes) and stay within the 50 pound airline luggage limit, so we were psyched to finally lead in SLC. We climb after skiing and the gym is incredibly crowded in the back" top-rope" part of the gym at that "after work" time. You have to jump to any open rope (and hope it's something you want to climb), or hover over the current climbers (annoying for both parties in my opinion). Meanwhile the front "lead" section is fairly open. You'd think they'd want to encourage lead climbing to spread people out, but they charge you 9 dollars for a lead test. I realize that this not a huge amount. But on principle it's annoying, since most gyms don't charge and the Front day pass is already more expensive than Momentum Millcreek (who also don't charge for lead tests). I'm sure if you live in SLC, you pay this once and forget about it. But, we already had high vacation costs so, for the first time, we climbed at the Front only once and climbed the rest at Momentum. Another part of our reason for not climbing the Front again was a very frustrating confrontation by a staff member. Because the gym was uber crowded, we jumped onto a autobelay to warm up. A staff member walked up, told us rudely that my wife had an "incorrect" configuration, and that we would have to take a auto belay certification course to continue. He could have just taken 10 seconds to educate us, but he walked away. So what was her "offense"? I asked other climbers. The front has two carabiners on each autobelay. Apparently, they intend for you to attach to one to your harness and leave the other attached to the autobelay flag on the ground. My wife attached both carabiners to her harness, a redundant and safer configuration. Our home gym requires two caribiners, but I've climbed over 15 gyms and I know this varies by gym. What irritates me is that some gyms think their rules are handed down from the hand of god, and any deviation is a serious offense. If gym the requirement is stricter and arguably safer (for instance, one gym I visited required a double fisherman's knot over the figure 8 knot), I respect and follow even if I don't agree. But, this was a safer set up and this guy wanted us to use our limited time for an auto belay course - not happening. If you have limited time in SLC, I recommend the less congested and more welcoming-to-visitors Momentum.