Lan S.
Yelp
After a family wedding in Cambridge-Boston, my wife and I decided to decompress by visiting two of the most famous houses in America, Wright's Fallingwater in western Pennsylvania and Philip Johnson's Glass House in New Canaan, Conn. (We also visited Wright's Usonian house, Kentuck Knob, near Fallingwater.)
Since the Glass House is so well known, I won't try to critique it but instead will focus on the tour experience.
Johnson perhaps wasn't a truly great architect, certainly not the genius that Wright was, and undoubtedly the Glass House is at least partly derivative of Mies van der Rohe's Farnsworth House near Chicago (Johnson's house was completed first, in 1949, but van der Rohe's plans for Farnsworth were completed earlier, and clearly they influenced Johnson.) Having said that, Johnson's main life work was to publicize Modernist architecture, and his building and living in the Glass House made him Mr. Modernist to almost everyone.
Now, the tour: You cannot drive directly to the Glass House. You park in one of the New Canaan municipal lots ($4 for three hours weekdays, free on weekends, and they do give tickets for overstaying) and walk to the Glass House visitor center on Elm Street. You are then taken by van to the Glass property.
Our guide was a local resident who had been giving tours for I think eight years, and she knew her stuff. En route to the house, our guide pointed out several other mid-20th century Modernist houses built by the Harvard Five, Harvard-trained architects who together built more than 100 houses in New Canaan, of which a little more than 80 remain.
You enter via a strange 20-ft. high gate, which was made from the boom of a sailboat and is raised vertically. On the left is Da Monsta gatehouse, which you see later in the tour. You walk down a paved road to the house. The guide points out a structure used by Johnson as his library and the Ghost House, a chain link structure built on the foundations of an old barn. (All together, on the two-hour tour you may walk nearly a mile, but it isn't strenuous, and for those with mobility issues a free golf cart-type transport is available.)
Photography is allowed everywhere but inside the Glass House for personal use only.
As you approach the Glass House, there is a traditional stone wall to the left, a swimming pool to the right, and there you have the famous house. It is smaller than you might think, only about 1800 sq. ft. Unlike the Farnsworth House, it sits close to the ground (The floor is brick with heating elements built in, with other elements also in the ceiling, but both failed in the first year after construction; today the radiant heat is from the floor only. It is not air-conditioned.) The house is a simple rectangle with almost solid glass walls, with narrow steel supports. As Wright supposedly said when visiting the Glass House, "I don't know whether to keep my hat on or take it off."
The views, especially from the back, are wonderful. Johnson and his companion, David Whitney, spent a lot of time and money on landscaping and on sculptures on the grounds. The circular fireplace help hide the bath and the small sleeping area, and the kitchen with low walnut cabinets (they look like birch, though) is at the left as you enter the front door.
The brick house, used initially as a guest house, which sits directly across from the Glass House and where Johnson later lived, flooded a couple of years ago and is not open for tours now. A $2 million fund-raising effort is under way to restore the brick house.
You do get to tour the Painting Gallery, which is built into earth and is patterned after Agamemnon's tomb, and the recently renovated Sculpture Gallery. After viewing several sculpture pieces on the 47-acre grounds, you walk back to Da Monsta, which was inspired by a German expressionist architect and built in 1995.
Here you are again met by the van and taken back to the visitor center, which has a small gift shop.
The tour we took cost about $50 each, and I think it was well worth the cost. Tours are available five days a week (not on Tuesdays or Wednesdays) from May 1 through November. It is usually a good idea to book ahead, which you can do online.
Even though Fallingwater is the more important house, arguably the most important American house of the 20th century, I think I enjoyed the Philip Johnson tour as much, or more, than Fallingwater.