LaMont C.
Yelp
Shorter distances have always appealed to me for summer getaways, and of all the options within a short drive of my home on Chicago's North Shore, few appeal more than Lake Geneva. Barely an hour away across the Wisconsin border, we recently returned to this attractive resort for the first time in several years to decompress from a thus-far more hectic than usual summer. Of all the things to love about Wisconsin--and there are many--food is arguably top of mind. If you leave there hungry, it's your own damn fault, and I have long maintained that it is virtually impossible to have a bad meal of any kind anywhere within her boundaries. So when we arrived at The Grandview on the first night of a recent overnight stay, I neither feared nor expected an exception.
Located directly of the waterfront side of the Geneva Inn, the only hotel that is actually on Lake Geneva, The Grandview is a long, spacious, unpretentiously elegant, multi-tiered room, lightly occupied on our Monday Night High Season visit, its bar smartly perched at the top level for both people watching as well as divisioning drinkers from eaters. The view from the window tables, with or without the soft pink and blue Impressionist sunset (ours was with) is one reason why a trip to any Lake District is worthwhile--as is also, ideally, the food. Hotel restaurants are a common way station for freshly minted chefs on their way to more seasoned achievements, but they can of course often be as mediocre as they are overpriced. The Grandview, thankfully, is not the latter, and it atones for the sort of relatively minor failings that such an an attractive incubator for culinary talent can and should be forgiven.
The current dinner menu is adequately varied in a safe, predictable, Midwestern kind of way. Picky eaters have no reason to worry, but truly adventurous palates (like mine) will not be too excited. The most exotic appetizer offering, an intriguingly Basque-ish sounding Stuffed Calamari, was sold out, a disappointment deepened further by the lack of an alternative warm seafood opener. I settled instead for the Seafood Cocktail plate, which arrived with neither lemon nor shellfish picks, on a bed of cubed rather than properly crushed ice. The generous serving of prawnlike shrimp and meaty Pacific Crab claws was impressively fresh, albeit devoid of any detectable marine flavour or aroma. The large cup of aggressively pungent horseradish puree, however, was easily the best and strongest my nostrils have ever encountered. Jeannie's appetizer, Ricotta And Prociutto Crostini, fared infinitely better, its preparation equally matching the quality and sophistication of its ingredients.
Fish can be a gamble when you are this far inland, but when Chilean Sea Bass is on the menu, I order it. The Grandview does it well: a large, perfectly cooked tranche, served Brazilian Moqueca style atop a generous bed of al dente saffron risotto. It looked--and tasted--like something I would make at home, and a side order of luscious, creamy, gently seared sea scallops made it even better. Ever the carnivore, my Jeannie chose the Petite Filet Mignon, the usual 6 ounce cut, conspicuous in this case for its pairing with crispy "haystack" fennel--an odd accompaniment to beef, I thought --and a confit of Beech Mushrooms. She approved of the buttery filet with Hunter's Sauce, but roundly condemned the mushrooms as rubbery in taste and texture and a very poor choice.
It was my birthday, so I chose a complimentary candle brownie over a free glass of wine. Our server was efficient, engaging and knowledgeable; the sparkling house rose she recommended was crisp, refreshing and nicely balanced, a perfect palate cleanser. Both of my Hendrick's Gin Martinis with blue cheese olive, were dead bang--nothing better than a bartender who's not in a hurry. But the attentive bar and well assembled cellar contrasted with the negligent, in fact non-existent, refills of our water glasses. Again, it was a slow Monday night. Sub-par table bussing is a sign of something; rather than ask, I usually prefer to wait and see if someone notices, since a good table captain (if there is one) does not allow it. I didn't see a table captain, and our water glasses were still empty when we left.
Should you go to The Grandview for more than just the grand view? Yes. This is one of those restaurants that is not just good enough, but good enough to not be better. The culinary world is full of them and they sadly tend to neither thrive nor survive, but this one enjoys the outsized advantage of being the big fish in a small pond...on a big, beautiful lake, in the bucolic agricultural Heartland. It has no excuse not to improve. Like a football team with on-the-cusp potential (no, I am NOT referring to either Da Bears or the Packers), and aside from a great venue, The Grandview appears to also be in need of the right coaching and the right quarterback. By my next visit, I hope it has all three.