Eric S.
Yelp
THE SCULPTOR & THE APPRENTICE
High up in the mountains of Hakone, this art exhibition/outdoor garden dazzles the senses.
Our third day in Japan saw us soaking in the breathtaking views of the idyllic countryside, a welcome change-of-pace from the bustling urban scenes of Tokyo. We'd booked a single night's stay at an Airbnb and stopped at a hot springs on the afternoon of 7/20/19 before coming here.
The Hakone-Tozan railway will drop you off fairly close to the entrance of this tourist attraction, though it may require a short bus ride or uphill walk to complete the journey. Sitting on 10 acres of immaculate green space, Hakone Open Air debuted in 1969 and operates daily between the hours of 9am-5pm.
Guests have the option of storing their valuables in lockers located near the entrance. You'll be doing a LOT of walking here -- probably 3-4 miles -- so stashing your belongings is highly advised. There's a cool fountain out front, but most of the good stuff is on the other side of the turnstiles.
After descending an escalator, you'll come upon a wide open vista dotted by small exhibit buildings. Most of the photo-worthy sculptures are spread throughout the property, so you'll need a keen eye and sense of adventure to see everything (and even then, it's likely you'll miss a few here and there).
Without going into excruciating detail about every display, it's important to know that Pablo Picasso's influence looms large at Hakone Open Air. The late Spanish surrealist has a dedicated gallery housing nearly 300 of his works of art, in addition to several other larger pieces outside.
Of note is the Symphonic Sculpture, a 50ft tower with a central spiral staircase and viewing platform at the top. It's covered in stained glass and the photo ops can be outstanding in clear weather (fog had rolled in when we visited, which lent an eerie Silent Hill-esque vibe to the day).
There's a few cafes on the premises, plus a gift shop, full service restaurant and foot bath. Admission for adults is 1500¥ ($13 USD) and students are only 700¥ ($6 USD). This is a very reasonable price, considering you could easily spend hours wandering the grounds and scouring the area for hidden sculptures.
* TL;DR *
Hakone Open Air is bizarre yet oddly whimsical. It appeals to both art aficionados and casual tourists alike; even if the phrase "Neo-classical impressionism" confuses you more than it excites you, there's still a ton of worthwhile things to see along the outdoor garden paths.
Exhibits rotate periodically, so it's possible the displays I saw in July 2019 are in storage somewhere, waiting to be dusted off and placed back into circulation. The lush green landscape surrounding the museum grounds is nothing short of stunning......I can only imagine what this place looks like in autumn when the leaves change color.
Even if this region of Japan wouldn't otherwise be on your radar, I'd urge you to set aside a full day to enjoy Hakone and relax in a nearby onsen (geothermal hot spring), as the time we spent here was some of the most peaceful all trip. I'm not an "art guy" by any means, but this was an amazing experience. 10/10 would recommend.